Nailing cladding ?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by dvddvd, Feb 16, 2017.

  1. dvddvd

    dvddvd Well-Known Member

    Hi all, what nails do I need to fix 18mm cedar cladding ? I've fixed a 38 X 70mm frame at 400mm centres.

    I wanted to secret nail it and longest length is 1800mm.

    I know I need stainless steel nail at 50mm?

    Is lost head nails ok or will they pull through? Thanks
     
  2. wiggy

    wiggy Screwfix Select

    I pin mine through the tongue using a dewalt 2nd fix nail gun and 36mm brads
     
  3. dvddvd

    dvddvd Well-Known Member

    Is a brad sturdy enough? It's on the exterior? I have a Senco Brad nailer up to 18ga ?

    I only have 6 m2 to dos a can take my time.

    I had a look on eBay at stainless steel nails and there is lost head and flat head?

    How many 50mm nails would be in 150g? They sell them by the weight
     
  4. wiggy

    wiggy Screwfix Select

    Its worked for 1000s m2 of cedar for me. Never had a problem.
     
  5. 2shortplanks

    2shortplanks Active Member

    stainless annular shank nails are best, lost head type - you don't want the nails sticking out above the surface . You're supposed to leave some room for expansion, so there's 2mm or so gap between end of tongue and groove, if the profile allows, make up a spacer to fit in the groove and then tap each length down to get even spacing.
    Some advice here:
    https://www.vastern.co.uk/advice/fixing-tgv-cladding/
     
  6. dvddvd

    dvddvd Well-Known Member

    Many thanks what gauge nails should I buy? I saw some at 3.5mm ? Seems quite thick ?

    Also at the bottom I'm hanging vertical is there any point in cutting the bottoms at 45 degrees? So it has a drip built in ? Or just cut at 90 degrees and the water will run off or would it soak more into under edge ?
     
  7. dvddvd

    dvddvd Well-Known Member

  8. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I think I would probably go for the 1.8mm dia ones myself but I'm happy to be proven wrong.
     
    wiggy likes this.
  9. 2shortplanks

    2shortplanks Active Member

    I think those nails are fine. Drilling first is a good idea, then punch the nails home, it's quite easy to split/damage cedar if you're not careful. Bevelling the bottoms is a good idea to minimise water sitting on the end grain and soaking in. Ideally the space behind the boards should be ventilated, by e.g. counter battens, and using mesh sccreen to keep insects out.
     
  10. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    If you are talking about fitting cladding vertically then it is better to undercut the timber than beveling it
     
  11. dvddvd

    dvddvd Well-Known Member

    Hi thanks yes it's fixed vertically, what do you mean by undercutting ?
     
  12. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Instead of cutting the bottom edge (nearest the ground) square, cut it so that their is a slope backwards. This way rain water drips off
     
  13. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    That explanation is not very clear:p.

    What sos means is to cut the bottom edge of the board at a 45 degree angle. This brings the wood to a point, reducing any surface area for the water to collect on, where it could be 'soaked up' by the cedar.
    Taking this simple step can add years of the life of the boards.
     
  14. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Thanks, One of the problems post head injury is that words don't always come out the way they should do :(
     
  15. Joe95

    Joe95 Screwfix Select

    It wasn't supposed to come across in a derogatory way, I was trying to clarify your point:).
     
  16. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Its ok, I didn't read it that way - although my reading can be a bit variable as well :rolleyes:
     

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