New wiring for cooker, hob and hood

what type of hob?
gas/electric?

 

I'm new to wiring, I'm rewiring my kitchen.


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Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

Don't think you are looking at ONE switch.

If you want more advice(or some advice) you would be better giving more info like ratings of the appliances etc, positions, availability of mcb ways etc.

Not that you'll get any advice from me. I'm just a bystander


Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

No. I'm saying you are not looking at ONE switch.

Maybe posible to have cooker control unit with socket, hob and oven on cooker connection and hood on plug.


But you still need to know ratings and work it out.



Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

As has been said need to know whats what. Assuming cooker is precable with a 13A plug the no reason no to install a double socket instead of a 45A cooker outlet.
So cooker & hob covered. Extractor fan seperate switch

 

Too much faffing about..no good. You have three things to cable an extractor..hob ignition..and oven. On the assumption that the oven is one of those MFI or similar kitchen pack items the following could apply (plug in type oven 12 amp or nigh on). The extractor normally has a switch to operate it so leave it at that..the presumption here is that you know how to cable it in so that is sorted. The hob/oven..run a dedicated radial into a D/A box using 2.5mm T+E (however for future proofing 6.0 or 10.0mm would be nice) and break at 20 amp. Use two switched FCU'S and outlet to a D/A behind the oven. Either use 2 x single gang socket outlets to feed the oven/hob ignition or use two FO plates..not to sure if sockets outs are allowed will have to check (fixed appliance and all that, would use them myself though) job sorted. To boot..maybe you should consult a spark as electricity can be dangerous.

 

Sorry forgot to say after burning in the oven on non RCD side..bang the radial into the RCD side of the CU..

 

Would that mean I can have all connected to the same
switch, or maybe jsut the oven and hob on the same
switch? I'm no good working out Volts/Amps/Watts etc.


First forget one switch operating everything..possible but potentially dangerous and a direct affront to the regs.

The extractor could be taken of the kitchen ring/radial via a switched FCU this is the norm.

6mm radial into dual accessory box use DP 40 amp switch for the oven and a switched FCU for the hob ignition fused with appropriate cartridge fuse..maybe red 3 amp. You can cable down from the above D/A to behind the oven (note clearances) into another dual accessory box. Leave the segregation plate in and cable as appropriate..6mm to cooker flex out and say 1.5mm or 2.5mm to flex outlet plate (maybe 2.5mm?) or socket outlet (again I would plug the hob ignition in, but I am not to sure on this as it really is a fixed appliance). CU end..32 amp MCB and burn in if necessary off the non RCD side..again I would run in the RCD side but that is open. Once again electricity is dangerous, so it is probably in your best interests to get a spark in to do the job.

 

Never done this but do you think it would be ok to run 2.5 or 1mm from the cooker switch to 2 unswitched fused spurs that would in turn supply the fan & hob

 

Never done this but do you think it would be ok to
run 2.5 or 1mm from the cooker switch to 2 unswitched
fused spurs that would in turn supply the fan & hob

Bad design..no good.

 

Probably right.
But not entirely sure why JP.

 

Probably right.
But not entirely sure why JP.

It's messy to say the least. Envisage it and all will become crystal.

 

Switched fused spur to double socket better ?


Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

Switched fused spur to double socket better ?


Mr. HandyAndy - really

The ds....behind the cooker?

 

No- the spurs would be in one of the units out of the way not next to the switch.
If ok to run a socket off the supply side of the cooker switch then why not 2 3 amp FCUs off load?
The guys then got his one switch.