Oak Worktops

I wouldn't mason mitre solid wood.

I would simply butt join, glued up with pva and with work top bolts fitted as normal.

You may also decide to biscuit join too.

The surface of the tops where they butt join will almost probably need sanding down to the same level with a random orbit sander, working down to a fine grit to finish.

 

as said just but joint it up , wouldnt router it as oak splits like a bugger .

also make sure when santing the joint after use some sort of block to make sure it stays flat .

when ever i have done them in the past i just but them up with waterproof pva and biscuts ever 100mm .

i wouldnt worry to much about sanding it all up till the end of the job as will move a little due to diffent temps etc

 

If i were you i would stick with your original plan and mitre the tops. It's a much better finish and the proper way to join solid tops. Use a good quality waterproof adhesive and biscuits every 100mm.Make sure you clean off any surplus glue from the joint before it dries with a damp cloth.

Regards,

LBJ

 

I agree to mitre too...
Just done some yesterday. Gives a nice clean finish. Don't be in a rush to cut it tho... It's a hard wood after all, and tough on blades.
Butt joins may be good if you haven't got a rounded off edge (similar to a laminate roll top edge)

 

Just a thought ...
Paultingtong...if you find the router splits oak badly, how would you go about fitting Oak Tops with a Belfast sink? Surely this is the best way to get a true 90* edge with a nice curve at the two back corners?

 

If you mitre them you will get a nice clean finish............until the wood starts to move.

Plus, you will need to fix the tops to the carcass with brackets that allow for expansion movement.

 

proper way to join solid tops.

Why is it the proper way? What possible advantage can a mitre have over a butt join on square edge tops? And karl has already pointed out the disadvantage.
And why does a mitre give a clean finish? That's what you get from doing a good job-nothing to do with it being mitred.
And while I'm at it, why would you glue timber along opposing grain directions? Especially if you acknowledge the need for stretcher plates!

 

if the worktop has square edges then I would butt joint them with biscuits and then chamfer or round the edge over after, cutting a mitre seems a waste of time and as has been said any change due to conditions is likely to be accross the grain and may affect the mitred joint.
I was always under the impression not to mitre solid wood tops.

 

Interesting debate do you don't you, as an amateur diy'er confused I will be. Got the tops, got the tools now look for the best advice I was thinking of male female joint with a mm or two larger biscuit groove than the biscuit dry to allow for a little movement, and a glued joint.

But does this just go to show that an amateur should not take on a project like this, any sound advice, to a first timer at 62 ( sad I know) would go a long way.

 

1st bit of advice, look at the age of the thread, this one is nearly 7 years old.

 

Thanks for the advice, priceless, as I could not find another thread for oak tops (heading) this was the place to post, saves not having loads of threads under the same heading.

 

Go with a butt joint.
A mitered joint will likely open when wood movement occurs.

Also don't glue the joint. Just apply a small smear of silicone along the top 6mm of the joint. This will still allow for wood movement and not affect the joint.
Then bolt together using clamps.
WIth a set of forstner bits and chisels the slots for the clamps can be made. And no need for a router or jig.
17412 - £7.99
5720c - £6.99
38887 - £2.39
15295 - £4.99.

 

Thanks for the advice Ryluer, I've read so many way to approach this and yours seems sound advice.

Brought a router, bits and new saw, 40 tooth blade and set about lots of practice runs, joints, biscuit, sink, induction hob so confidence is growing.

The old ticker having problems doesn't help much, can't do a lot, have to get others to move top about but I'm getting there.

Thanks again for the advice.