Old Unit brackets just screwed into plasterboard?

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by wakeywakey, May 24, 2015.

  1. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    My old units were attached by bracket simply screwed into the plaster board.
    Is this usual?

    My new units happen to need bracket fixing in between the stud beam but it doesn't feel right just screwing brackets into plaster.

    Saying that they held for 10 years and I can't pull them off!
     
  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Don't do it
     
  3. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

  4. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    Are you sure there wasn't wood behind the plasterboard?

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  5. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    Or a dry lined wall? :eek:
     
  6. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    Can you tell I'm new to this.
    I've googled it and it looks like dry lined as there is a gap about 4 inches between the plasterboard and the board behind it
    There are some vertical and horizontal beams throughout the wall.
    Does this sound like dry lined?

    Does that make a difference about the way the old units were attached?
     
  7. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    No it sounds like a stud wall, dry lined would usually have a gap of around 10-15mm
    Like Handyandy has already said there maybe timbers behind the plasterboard at wall unit height to allow fixing of the wall units if not use the brackets I have linked to earlier to hang your units they allow you to fix to the studs and you can then hang your units wherever you like.
     
  8. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    Checked for timbers at height needed. None there.
    You say these brackets fit to the stud.
    Isn't the stud the same as the timbers behind the board?
     
  9. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    Yes the studs are the timbers behind the board, go out and buy the 2m long hanging rail I've linked to and screw it into the studs and hang your wall units on it. Job done!!
    https://www.locksonline.com/buy/Cab...ng-6492.html?gclid=CMz_vrmd28UCFTLLtAodrhUAbA
     
    MBM likes this.
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    You will have to chop a bit out of the back of your units for it to fit over the rail but this is the way to go.
     
  11. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    Sorry, I am probably being incredibly thick here, but how can I screw the rail into the studs if I don't have any beams at the height I need?
     
  12. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    The studs will run from floor to ceiling, usually 400mm apart. The rail has multiple holes for offset fixing.
     
  13. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Oh dear.
     
    Big Dunk likes this.
  14. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    I know Chippie:(
     
  15. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    OK, I get it now.
    Yes, i'm a bit thick but there is no need to start being rude guys!
     
  16. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    It's all just good humour, chill. Let us know how you get on
     
  17. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Use plasterboard fixings at the end of the brackets if they don't coincide with a vertical stud.
     
  18. wakeywakey

    wakeywakey Member

    Mine don't. There are no studs anywhere near bracket height.
    Ok, I'm just gonna use plasterboard screws.
    They held for 10 years with them anyway.

    The only other way would be to bridge the vertical studs with horizontal one at bracket height I suppose, but lots of work and as I say, held well enough previously with just the screws.
     
  19. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    image.jpg

    The idea of the full length rail is that you only need to use the vertical studs. Screw into them where you can across your run of cabinets. Use some plaster board fixings at ends if there isn't a vertical stud.

    Mark the outline of the top of your wall cabinets, then below this carefully tap/probe until you find the vertical studs and make a pencil mark. They're usually set equidistant apart at approximate 400mm centres but depends on who built the wall!!
     
  20. Big Dunk

    Big Dunk Active Member

    I suggest you now employ a joiner to do this for you, you clearly don't grasp the concept of the hanging rail.
     

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