I'm looking into alternatives to the Osmo Oil... One option would be to use Sadolin Classic as a base coat and then two coats of either the extra durable stain or extra durable clear coat. Another option would be to use Owatrol Deks ojle D1. At the minute I'm quite liking this option. It's a deep penetrating oil that's suitable for marine applications. The application process seems quick compared to the other options too. I've used Sadolin before but not the Deks ojle. Anyone know of any tips/considerations?
Because we face the sea we use plenty of marine products. Haven't used that particular one. Typically most of them state quite a long time before they need refinishing. Oil will be quite a good option as much easier to clean up if it goes on the glass. Festool do an oiling pad with internal reservoir for larger surfaces like the doors
The D1 is an oil but it's much thinner than Osmo Oil and penetrates deep into the wood. Unlike Osmo Oil and stains like Sadolin it needs no sanding when it comes to re-application. Both of those products 'skin' so they can only be 'so' thick before they start to get opaque. The D1 doesn't skin so when it needs to be re-applied you just apply more and the wood sucks it up. I like the sound of that. You're bang on about oil and glass compared to a stain like Sadolin. A quick wipe and it's gone. I just had a look at that Festool pad, looks like a bargain at £30. I'll definitely be getting one of those if the client chooses Oil
It is strange how little marine products get into Builders merchants as some of them are ideal for heavy duty long work
is the only product i have personally used that works and its self neutralizing, 20 years ago working on a large country house (new build) we faced 35 oak window boards that where due to be finished with limed wax (white) but the builder had installed them without any protection prior to plastering, so at each end of the window boards black stains from water ingress we tried sanding with 0% success, but after 2 coats of Liberon wood bleach the window boards where 100% free of stain, the builder was very happy as it meant he could cancel the order for new window boards.
The Liberon WB is definitely getting used on the blackened sections. As for finish, osmo uv is the front runner.
Hi PJ, i have been reading your views on Osmo and dealing with the blackened windows in solid oak etc. I find myself in precisely the same position, solid oak, treated with osmo a few years ago but have blackened, so i am investigating getting this put right. I wonder if you did the work on your windows and if so, how did you get on. Was the end result good? Did the bleaching product work? Many thanks.
Gents, Could do with some help. Wooden clad Atrium on my house has been finished with OSMO external and a silicone weather sealant applied as a bead to Glass/wood interface. Windows are now leaking and I'm suspicious that it could be the silicone not adhering because of the oil based OSMO. Anybody seen similar problems or got any advice? Any help appreciated.
Might be better with a netural cure sealant like Everbuild Silicone 825 sealant (available in several colours,& from competitor) it has better adhesive properties. https://www.everbuild.co.uk/product/silicone-825/ Could even contact OSMO & see what they recommend. https://osmouk.com/contactus.cfm
Just got a reply from OSMO support. Basically they advise that Silicone Sealants are unlikely to work with OSMO because it is plant oil based. They recommend their external sealant should be used with an additional application of OSMO once cured. I've found the clear version of this. Thanks for your help Best regards Glen
Thanks for update,well you learn something new everyday. This product: https://www.osmouk.com/sitechaptern.cfm?bookid=Products&chapter=64&page=403
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