Outhouse Conversion

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by JPounder, Nov 24, 2015.

  1. JPounder

    JPounder New Member

    Hi,

    Hoping you can help me. I have 1950's semi which has a single brick outhouse attached at the back. This can be accessed through the kitchen and also the side of the house.

    The outhouse has been partitioned into 4 mini rooms (original layout I believe) toilet, coal storage, tool storage area and 'lobby'.

    My hope is to take 4 rooms down to 2 as part of a mini refurbishment. Leaving one large utility space and the downstairs loo.

    The roof is a timber frame flat roof with felt over what looks like chipboard. I was thinking of adding a timber lintel to go the full width of the outhouse allowing me to remove the walls I no longer require.

    Is this a sensible option and what kind of timber and size would you recommend?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    PS apologies for the long winded question.
     
  2. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Hi,

    It is a bit of a tough one to answer without knowing the sizes or floor layout. Could you posts these and possibly some pictures ?
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    And size of roof joists.
     
  4. tiler7777

    tiler7777 Member

    Unless you are having load on the roof like an earth roof the joist size doesnt matter. But the joists need to be spaced at around 400mm. Are you sure the current joists end on the wall u plan to knock down?
     
  5. JPounder

    JPounder New Member

    Hi all,

    Thanks for your quick replies. The roof will not have a load above.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    I've added a few pictures to help give it more context (excuse the junk). The joists are 4x2 and appear to be running parallel to the wall I want to remove. I'm thinking about adding joist or joists that run perpendicular to those to give the support I need.

    Is this actually necessary if the 4x2s run from end of outhouse to the main house wall?

    Many thanks

    James
     
  6. tiler7777

    tiler7777 Member

    so if the joists you have start at your house and finish at the end of the outhouse with no cuts your wall is not load bearing and you can just knock it down. If your joists have a gap of more than 600mm it would be worth putting in some perpendicular beacuse any heavy load of snow might warp your plyboards with the weight. Otherwise its a waste of time really.
     
  7. JPounder

    JPounder New Member

    Thanks for this. I think I'll pull the plasterboard down on the roof and confirm they are full length.

    The next thing would be to batton the walls and insulate adding plasterboard to walls and roof. Should I consider any ventilation ducts?
     

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