went to swap an oven out for someone. Isolate the supply, slide the oven out and..... dual gang recessed box split for the cooker outlet and a single socket with an extension lead plugged in for the fridge and igniter for the gas hob.
Hi Kiab, I would have although the owner was present the whole time, so didn't this time mate. Prior to arriving, i was planning on swapping the cooker outlet for an FCU as the single oven comes with 2.5 butyl so needs fusing down to 13 but then they have got the frigging fridge and igniter hanging off a socket (which is also isolated by the cooker switch - although i guess this is not an issue in itself) which needs sorting out. What a mess!
Hi RS. This is the thing isn't it. Considering the circumstances, i think i will have to put the 6mm in some Wago 773's and then come out for 2 FCU's: one for the oven, the second for the ignitor which then supplies a single, switch socket in the cabinet next door labelled up for the fridge. As long as i keep the 6mm run it would save me swopping the 32 type b out.
Hi Sen. Perhaps not un-safe mate, although not ideal having to take the oven out (or the plinths off) to switch off / if there is a problem with the fridge or gas igniter. One thing i can foresee happening is some people do turn the isolators off for the oven when not in use. In this case, the fridge/freezer will get turned off too. I'll put a label on the isolator "Oven and Fridge".
Being the devils advocate here....2.5 is ok on 32 A mcb (seems ok to spur off in 2.5 from origen on 32A ring cct) Drop the 6 to 2.5...then supply 2 different ccts with it. One oven and the FCU. easier to work in 2.5....and no one seem to worry about 314.xxx these days? Would it be unsafe...lol RS
This is more of an isolation issue than a safety one. The customer should be encouraged to find another socket for the fridge, keep the socket on the dual box for the hob ignition and all good. Can you install a socket elsewhere for the fridge? If not then its their problem if they turn off the cooker outlet.
Morning fella's, thanks for all the posts, much appreciated. RS - Sounds like a plan, and as you say, 2.5 is much easier to work with than 6! UP - The daft thing is with this mate: it looks like there was a socket for the fridge directly above it (i haven't confirmed this although there is a newish looking blanking plate above it!) but rather than sort that out it looks like the kitchen was installed and tiled without thinking. Why do some people have kitchens fitted, tiled and then start thinking about the electrics?! I'll give them the option of doing it properly which will mean the integrated fridge has to come out, pop the tiles off and connect the fridge up to where it looks like it should have gone in the first place, or the socket in the cupboard fed off the cooker circuit and isolator. I think they are going to go for the latter mate.
So, now wearing my hat of not being the devils advocate.... Un...its not the customers problem ! It would not be unreasonable for a customer to isolate the cooker and NOT expect the fridge/freezer to be isolated ! Hence the reasons for 314.xxx and other regs. Of course suitable permanent labeling 'at point of use'... will help....and is allowed in the regs. Fats, its not for the customer to dictate to you what they want, based on price or ignorance. It's for you to give professional advice based on the regs, good working practice, experience and liability under the law.....or walk away from the job. Which I am sure you understand anyway....lol Let us know how 'you' decide to solve the problem. RS
Evening. RS - take on board what you are saying. It's a newish kitchen so I did suggest they enquire with the kitchen people exactly what they quoted to do. Risteard- because that's what the manufacturer has stated in the installation manual mate.
Fats......have the kitchen bodger...i mean fitters ....certified any electrical work done ? Have they followed any manufacturs requirements or not ? DEf charge extra for putting stuff right ...lol
Is it wrong? For instance: http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-2-gan...-13a-plug-socket-w-neon-stainless-steel/94738 And the OSG gives diversity calcs for cooker switch with plug...
RS - they haven't come back to me yet mate, although i am not sure what (if anything) the kitten fitters have done electrical wise. Reading between the lines, i am wondering if the customer didn't want the cable for the fridge coming up through the worktop and on a plug (although if that is the case, i am not sure why a socket (assuming it was a socket - i never looked whilst i was there) wasn't left on the wall instead of a blanking plate). If this hadn't of happened, the gas ignitor could be plugged in OK and the cooker outlet could have been swapped for an FCU for the new Oven. Stateit - My concern wasn't over the socket outlet fed from the cooker circuit mate, but more the fact that if the fridge freezer or ignitor starts playing up, they would need to take the oven or plinths off to sort it. Also, i can think of some people (usually the elderly) who turn off the oven isolator and in this case the fridge will get switched off too mate.
Just needs labelling correctly thats all. Stick one of those 'Electrics By Kitchen Fitter' labels on the front door. Job done.
Sounds like you need a Hazard warning sticker. As in you don't want to Hazard a guess at what they've done.