Hi all Looking for some advice in painting the front of my house. Over 6 months ago now, the lower 2/3rds of the house were chipped back and re-rendered. The last 3rd was in good condition so the plasterer didn't touch it and just blended into the old. So now I have a 2-tone house front, with 2/3rd fresh render and a 1/3 old and with old white paint, flaking in places. Not sure how to approach the job, it's a very small and flat area to do as it's a small Victorian terrace. I only want to paint it white. My plan is something along the lines of: The new Render: Stiff brush over it as there are some Salt deposits and the mix was made quite sandy, to mix the texture of the existing. Wall Primer and Stabiliser over it. 10% Diluted paint, then build up with non-diluted paint. Job done? All Sandtex quality paint, even the diluted mix. The old render: Stiff brush to clear any flaking paint (don't really want to actually remove the paint with a heat gun or anything) Stabiliser as well?? And couple of coats of Paint (Sandtex). The only slight challenge is that a couple of long cracks have appeared around the windows in the new render. We're by a busy road and ALL of the properties in this terrace seems to get recurring cracks, even after render jobs (seems to be the age of these places). I was planning to try and fill these first with a Ronseal Exterior Ready mix, or Epoxyshield Fine Crack repair.....which should I use?? The missus thinks it's just a "stick some paint on it all" job, but so many of these houses I see start bubbling under paint and flaking when done in a rush.
Hi Odge. You've got it covered. (Or will have... ) New - a good brushing, and a coat of, say, Everbuild 406 Stabiliser. Then a good quality paint as you've said. Not sure it'll need diluting as it's going on Stabiliser, but no harm. Ditto with old - all the loose bits of paint will need brushing/scraping off (the most hellish part of the job), but the 406 will also prime the remaining painted surfaces and also help to stick any remaining loose edges down. But, any obviously loose flakes will need removing... These cracks - how 'wide' are they? Are they literally 'hairline'? If so, try simply brushing 406 over the crack until it soaks in no more. Wipe up any runs, but keep brushing wet 406 along and over the crack so's it's drawn in. That might be enough to bond and seal the crack, so it gets covered when painted. Failing that, I think I'd still brush 406 into it, allow it to dry, and then use - I think - the epoxy filler. But take care not to allow it to form a skin over the surrounding crack and make a teeny li'l crack look like a flat track...
YOU never dilute Everbuild 406 stabilishing fluid. And shouldn't dilute Sandtex either. Toupret Murex exterior filler is a excellent filler, only from our hosts competitors.
Use a filling knife for the filler & then use a paintbrush for blending in filler to render while wet, I have a old worn short bristle paintbrush to use for same purpose.
My 'diluting' comment applied only to the paint . But you wouldn't dilute Sandtex either - not even if no stabiliser used? Something special about Sandtex, or does that apply to all masonry paints?
Know you DA wouldn't, but others might be tempted to dilute 406. Nope! Your never suppose to dilute Sandtex Fine Textured or Smooth masonry paint, & there is no mention of diluting on the instructions on their tin, & I seldom use other masonry paint. But, Sandtex trade masonry paint might be differet for the solvent & water base masonry paint. Sandtex 365 SOLVENT BASED masonry paint. http://www.sandtextrade.co.uk/product/sandtex-trade-365-all-weather-masonry/ http://www.sandtextrade.co.uk/products/masonry-paint/smooth/
SandtexTrade X-treme X-posure may be thinned by up to 10% with clean water for airless spray application.
Perhaps I should have said "Apply the 406...and then apply the masonry paint following the manufacturer's instructions." There, ma botty is covered...
Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it. Yeah, interesting thought there about the requirement for a dilute coat if you've used a stabiliser beforehand? Presumably the paint sits on the stabiliser and not the render. Guess you just might notice you need more stabiliser on fresh render as it will soak in? For reference, and the crack width, here are some fascinating photos:
Niiiiice... As KIAB says - use a filler and a brush to match the texture, most likely by gently 'stippling'. I'd 406 it first, and allow a goodly amount to be drawn in to the crack until it says 'enough already...' And let that dry.
Shouldn't be any need to make render mix sandy to mix/match the texture of the existing render, the finish & matching is all down to technique & skill by person applying render.
As an aside, are there block-lines in the above painted section? Can't see from the picture. Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Yeah, much less pronounced due to the decades of paint, but they are in there somewhere! Managed to get up there this weekend and start 'brushing off any loose or flaky paint'. This turned into 'removing all the paint'. Jeez, me and a wallpaper scraper. Tedium. Just debating now whether to fill the level difference where the paint has been scraped back further than the last solid paint layer..... Can of worms anyone.... I'm planning on using this for the Stabiliser / Primer, as I already have 5l of it. This OK?
Following a good going over with a stiff bristle brush (not wire) I would prime the old surface with an oil based PRIMER SEALER such as Albany Primer Sealer from Brewers decorators merchants to stop the suction of the porous surface and seal the friable surface.
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