Decorators of the world unite! I have a task on my hands.... i have a 15 year old pine conservatory, with what looks like a dark varnish on, inside and out. I'm wanting to paint the inside woodwork white to brighten it up, but just re-varnish the outside to match the outside brickwork. My issue as that there is some pretty bad resin bleed in spots which i don't want affecting the paintwork. I have tried to read into it and have stumbled into the minefield called "microporous paint", and the arguments of whether this claim is rubbish or not. I want to treat the timber effectively and prevent the resin bleed occuring again, but at the same time i dont want bubbling and peeling paint if the paint is not "microporous" enough. My plan is to sand, apply knotting to the spots, paint with Zinsser BIN undercoat, and maybe Dulux satinwood topcoats (er, maybe touch on the yellowing paint/ water based- solvent based question at the same time?), and then varnish the outside with Sadolin varnish which claims to be Microporous. My question is, is the Varnish enough to let the timber breathe, and is my plan good, or bad. Thanks guys!!!
Had you thought about removing the resin bleed areas by drilling them out with a wood bit and then filling the holes with 2 part filler. Sadolin are excellent products and would have no worries on using them, water based paints such as Dulux QD satinwood or even better QD eggshell would be fine for the job as would be Bedec Barn Paint all of course after thorough preparation. Zinsser Bin or Bullseye 123 are both an excellent choice.
Hey Astramax. Thanks for the reply! Yes, i have thought about drilling out the spots with the resin bleed,and i will do so but the one area is a strip of about a foot and a half long of continuous resin bleed, so i might get the chisel out and chop out the area. Regarding the water based paint, i have heard that it still feels a little soft when dry and can peel. Is this true in your experience?
The quality water based paints such as the one's mentioned in my earlier reply are fine, preparation is the key. Use Zinsser BIN on the knot resin bleed areas to seal the wood. I would use Bullseye 123 over the varnish to provide a key for the finish coats, QD satinwood & eggshell are self undercoating but as you have a dark varnish to blind out an acrylic primer/undercoat would best be also used.
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