painting rough brick surface?

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by lenforder, Aug 8, 2016.

  1. lenforder

    lenforder New Member

    Thanks KIAB for checking, do you know what type of brick I have, its not your ordinary house brick per my original post.

    Just dont want to get the wrong type of paint and mess it up, I will brush/roller it now rather than spray it.

    hmmmmm Confused now...
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Your brick has a rusticated finish, reading on Sandtex site,the following:

    Suitable for use on most sound, dry exterior masonry surfaces.
    Suitable: Rendering, Roughcast, Pebbledash, Concrete, Building Blocks, Facing Bricks, Emulsion or Masonry Painted Surfaces.

    So you should be ok.

    http://www.sandtex.co.uk/products/sandtex-smooth-masonry-paint/
     
    SWBUILDERS likes this.
  3. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    I would use a 4" masonry roller so you can really move it around and fill those dimples and a brush that suits you, Go buy yourself a 'Pelican' and a pack of Pelican liners you will wonder how you managed without one, remember the first coat will be the worst one to apply.
     
    KIAB and SWBUILDERS like this.
  4. leesparkykent

    leesparkykent Well-Known Member

    look at hiring a Graco airless sprayer. Graco is probably the leading brand.
     
  5. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    Hi mate the correct process is stabilising solution then 3 x coats of masonry paint, sandtex smooth or dulux westersheid are as good as each other, or if you feel flush go with an oil based masonry paint like dulux all seasons. I wouldn't use a sprayer as by the time you've masked up you could have cut in and rolled it also you would need to **** out masonry a fair bit to get it through a sprayer, hired airless sprayers can be temprimenral and need priming that if not done correctly you can spend ages trying to get working . A 4 inch brush and extra long pile 9 inch roller sleeve will easily do the job
     
  6. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Why does a sound wall require stabilizing? Applying a stabilizer to a sound wall can sometimes lead to a glazed surface that could in turn cause paint adhesion problems.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  7. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    Because it is brickwork and reduces the paint consumption as it seals the reduces porosity of materials? every new build renderer job or block work wall we have every done has been stabilised as per sandtex end own spec and not least because the OP said it has a crumbly texture
     
  8. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    He is describing the brick texture as 'crumbly' which is what a a rusticated finish brick appearance is like.

    Can't see the need for stabilishing solution on a sound wall.
     
  9. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    Still should stabilise as it is old and will make it far easier to apply and get rid of any holes that appear in when coating as DA described in his previous post
     
  10. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    It's not a sound wall though? It's a brick wall that pours and looks like a crumbly texture with loose dust and mortor don't get me wrong it would not be detrimental omit stabilising but for the cost of some stabiliser it would considerabley reduce paint consumption and labour time
     
  11. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Well looking at OP's photo's where is the loose mortar, wall looks rather goo, prehaps OP will clarify condition of wall....

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Some stabilisers (I think Wicks' for instance) warn against using it on good, non-dusty/non-porous surfaces as it could compromise adhesion - only to be used on surfaces which actually require sealing and 'stabilising', and even then don't allow it to 'pool' or be applied so thick it leaves a shine.

    I went ahead and used Wicks' stuff on block gate pillars which had some weak mortar bits - and, sure enough, the masonry paint loosened from some of the smooth blocks after a year. What a pita.

    I only use Everbuild 406 now, and this seems to be more reliable - you can pretty much apply it to anything...

    I agree with Astra & KIAB on this one - these particular bricks are rough-textured but should not be 'porous'. I see no need - or benefit - for stabiliser in this case.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    He agree's [​IMG] [​IMG] but,Astra is the pro here...:p
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2016
  14. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    A first thinned coat will help the second coat cover, rather than a first full coat.

    Probably need to roller loads on, AND brush it in.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  15. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    A proper airless sprayer and it will be done in minutes.
     
  16. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    Are you actually saying bricks are not porus? I think you'll find this quite the opposite, I have 10 decorators that work for me and all of them will tell you that a coat of stabiliser will save them hours on brick, block, roughcast, spa dash whatever sandtex even spec it, to the OP I'll send one of them up to sort your wall free of charge and even throw in the stabiliser for nowt to shut these DIY's up how's about that you can message me if you want to take the offer up, and if you clowns want to come watch your more than welcome
     
  17. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Message to OP, take up the offer, sod the stabilizer it's free.
     
    Doall and Deleted member 33931 like this.
  18. SWBUILDERS

    SWBUILDERS Active Member

    Quick caveat you must be in mainland uk ;)
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  19. lenforder

    lenforder New Member

    Many thanks for the replies guys, yes the inside of the garage is bone dry, & in good condition, ive attached a few more pics of the bricks for better. clarification, yes im in the UK.
     
  20. lenforder

    lenforder New Member

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