Painting window frames

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by fostyrob, Aug 13, 2017.

  1. fostyrob

    fostyrob Screwfix Select

    Having been putting it off for long enough I am now gearing up to getting the wooden window frames painted but was after a bit of advice.

    The windows are beginning to flake in places. Other areas look like they have been over painted numerous times with thick lumpy paint. The putty round the glass is also a bit of a mess so I was going to tackle that at the same time.

    upload_2017-8-13_15-37-51.jpeg

    I had planned to sand it all back to the wood and remove as much of the old hard putty as possible. re-putty, fill any areas needing attention with epoxy filler and then get to painting. I have acrylic primer and white paint which I was hoping to use up but if it is felt that water soluble versions would be better I can pick some up.

    What is the best way in which to paint the frame and putty up to the glass? I have seen people mask off the glass as close to the edge as possible and this is the route I have gone down in the past. Despite using good quality low tack I either get bleeding under it or a very slightly irregular edge when pulling it off. I have recently seen others go without tape and just paint the frame and putty and extend onto the glass itself then when dry scrape back to give a clean edge. This method does however fill me with a bit of fear in that I cannot get the paint off the glass again and make a total mess of things but with glass scrapers I would have thought it should come off. Which route would people advise?

    Many thanks
     
  2. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    On the outside, leave some paint on the glass. It makes for a better seal between glass and putty. For a nice straight line, use a strip of wood the right thickness and rest your brush on it as you pull the brush along it as a guide.
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    And using a quailty brush can help, like a pure Synthetic one,if using a water based paint.
     
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Remember....................new putty and water based paints don't like each other! If it wasn't for the new putty I would have recommended Bedec Barn Paint after thorough preparation, after all why make work difficult!
     
  5. fostyrob

    fostyrob Screwfix Select

    Thanks for the replies.

    Given that the putty is a mess as you can see on the right side of the window I think I really need to re-do it. It is very uneven and has who knows how many coats of paint over it.

    Do you have a recommendation for paint assuming I will be over painting new putty? Currently I have Leyland trade acryllic primer/undercoat and the topcoat I think it Leyland trade again but will need to check that out.
     
  6. Tishu

    Tishu New Member

    Get some frog tape and put it on about 1mm from the edge of the putty then press it down with a damp cloth before you paint. Prime the putty with Zinsser 123 after it has hardened then undercoat and topcoat.
     
  7. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member

    I am also looking to paint some window boards.

    They have already been primed.

    So I got some Dulux Satinwood.

    I will remove any dust from the boards first, then I will put on the Dulux Santinwood paint.

    Just wanted to check this was the correct approach, as I have never decorated a window board before.
     
  8. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    What paint are you using Mike - solvent or water based ?

    Give the primer a light rub over with 180 paper, then dust down

    Satinwood claims that no undercoat needed as its 'self undercoating'

    If using waterbased, the opacity can be a little thin so an undercoat helps to give a more solid white base

    Using a 4" foam roller to get the paint on, then laying off with a nice synthetic brush is the way to go - especially if using water based. You've gotta get this stuff on quick, lay off then leave alone !
     
    Iron_Mike likes this.
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member


    Well, I can highly recommend Hamilton Prestige short pile 'Felt' 4" rollers, comes in packs of 10, using them with Johnstone Aqua water base satin, applied with a roller on doors,didn't even need to lay off with a brush.

    And Johnstone Aqua satin water base paint, absolutely fabulous finish,using Hamilton Prestige pure synthetic brushes, darn good brushes, good as the Purdy & cheaper, only bought them as I had misplaced a couple of my Purdy brushes, & merchant was out of stock of 3" & 1.5" Purdy brushes.

    http://www.thepaintshed.com/products/johnstones-trade/johstones-aqua-satin/johnstone's-aqua-satin-2.5lt-brilliant-white/c-24/c-304/p-985

    http://www.thepaintshed.com/product...aqua-water-based-gloss-white/c-24/c-135/p-432

    Haven't tried the gloss, but apparantly it's as good as the satin, also no one could match the prices locally offered by 'The Paint Shed', & their service was superb, ordered Thursday morning, arrived following day at lunch time.
     
    Dr Bodgit and Iron_Mike like this.
  10. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member

    Cheers guys.

    Am using the Dulux Satinwood (wood & metal) Not sure if it is a solvent or water based paint.

    I will role the boards and do the edges with a 1 inch brush I have.
     
  11. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    I believe the Dulux Satinwood is the oil based product and the Dulux Satin QD is the waterbase, what you cleaning your brush with Iron Mike?
     
    Iron_Mike likes this.
  12. Iron_Mike

    Iron_Mike Active Member

    I haven't actually used it yet.

    For the walls, I used a Dulux Matt paint. As soon as I finished painting, I chuck them in a bucket of water and clean them a few hours later.

    For a oil based paint, I am guessing that I will need a different cleaning approach?
     

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