I have to paper a feature wall, it's expensive designer paper. Instructions say paste the wall not the paper, and use this paste - Perfax Metylan Direct. Not having pasted the wall before I wondered do you have to do it that way and why, and if so any particular tips on doing it? Also the paste, can you use any paste as long as its strong enough, or does it have to be the one specified or another 'paste the wall' type? The paper is a washable, peelable vinyl so I can't see why it needs to be done this way really. If it was a cheap paper I'd just bash on with it but I'd rather check this first! Any advice welcomed, thanks.
Pasting the wall as instructed is fine and quite a lot quicker as you do not have to allow the paper to soak. I only use Solvite paste myself. Size the wall first and let the paste dry, then make up the paste a little thicker than you would normally, paste the wall and hang the paper. I do not know of the Perfax paste, however you could Google it, also if the paper hanging went wrong you may/will not have a get out as you did not use the recommended paste! But that's probably unlikely.
Surely any tradesman worth his salt, will follow Manufacturers Instructions. As it's an expensive designer wallpaper, I'd be tempted to do exactly what the manufacturer advises.
Just looked the recommended adhesive up on Google, it is only a light to heavy weight vinyl paper.glue.
Thanks for the replies; local decorating shop recommends ready mixed paste and paste the walls but paste the paper too 'just to be sure' - thats what most do apparently.
Hi Steve, Agree with the shop, i always paste wall as well as paper. As astramax said, size the walls first and allow to fully dry.
I don't see the point in pasting the paper, paste the wall papers are typically fibre based papers which don't swell after pasting. Furthermore you'll end up with loads of paste between paper and wall. Size the walls, and paste the wall properly.
You should really use the manufacturers recommended paste, though I've tended to use Beeline pre mixed paste on stuff like Harlequin with no problems. Make sure it's diluted to the recommended level. Gently paste or roller it onto the wall then use a brush to get an even amount of paste along the ceiling line & skirting line & also into any corners etc. The difficulty you might find hanging paste the wall paper is until you're used to it, it can be quite hard to cut into corners or around awkward areas such as fireplaces because the paper is dry, it's not supple like pasted paper & it has a tendancy to want to roll itself back up. Humorously, if I remember rightly, Harlequin for one suggest you hang it straight from the roll. I wouldn't do that, cut to length (+ a bit extra) beforehand as it will make life much easier & the paper more manageable! For really fiddly areas you need to take it one obstacle/cut at a time - after marking lightly with a pencil I tend to use a clean scraper & fresh blade to get get a really neat edge on niggly areas such as around fire surrounds etc. You need to go steady but fairly quick, though you tend to get a little longer open time with pre mixed paste.
As someone who makes a living as a painter and decorator I was a little apprehensive with paste the wall wall paper I followed the label directions and found the paper blistered straight away . I then resorted to pasting the paper , allowing no soaking time and applying to the wall using a caulker and trimming with a blade . Job sorted .
Hi,fellow Craftsmen. Couldn't agree more with most of the comments re.paste the wall papering. As a "Sticker" of many years experience, I'd humbly suggest that the point about the paper buckling is a valid one. No soaking time allowed can cause havoc,even with the priciest of papers, using this particular process. However,even though preferably not...speed is of the essence here,and applying one very thinned down coat of paste to the paper,quickly&carefully, and hanging onto the dry sized wall post-haste,will work well...Also,find a supplier who sells the ol' formica veneer sheeting : Once you've bought your piece(I suggest 4mm thickness)You can tailor make your cutting guides,used with a small snap-off blade knife,to fit even into the trickiest of corners/angles. And...no cutting guide,even scissors!, will give you such a clean finish. Be careful though.. The edge of formica can be very sharp,so use with caution...Cheers!
Ha! Well said,good Astramax! The Wallwizz is a good tool,but cumbersome in tight areas! And the Coral....Well,nuff said!!
I'm wondering whether there're still any tradesmen out there,short of working for English Heritage/National Trust,who've had the chance to work with hand blocked Pugin/William Morris papers and the like,and encountered the tricksy problems with hanging that stuff!! Let alone foils, silks,etc.... It's a whole different world of learning about wallpapering, and as far a cry from vinyls and pasted walls, as our planet is from Pluto!!!
Come to think of it....Bring it on! Any stickers out there who'd like to contribute to the enlightenment of our non trade skilled brethren, upon whom we rely for a living,apropos wallpapering in all it's glory??
That having been said...No offence intended to the wise advice given by all so far...But,as we all know,this is very tricky craft,and there's much written in numerous books,and on the back of numerous products that is helpful, but not as helpful as advice given from a skilled craftsman...
Mixing the paste. Do what it says on the packet. Stir the water and add the powder. Lots of great advice above. I didn't mix my paste properly first attempt and it was such hard work. Second wall with the paste quite different the paper slid justike the in the solvite video