I went to a job the other week to replace an under sink heater that was leaking badly, well when I looked at it I had to laugh the guy that installed it (fooked it up) used the pressure relief valve on the in coming main and jammed it open with a small stone because the incoming pressure would not push past it.It had no pressure reducing valve,no expansion vessel,no prv because he'd used that on the incoming and I can only assume he thought it was a pressure reducer.No check valve ha ha!! the list goes on. Well what can I say the customer thought he'd got a bargain with that guy,and now he has had to pay me to supply and fit a proper job.
they're great little heater those PB and srewfix knock em out cheaper than anyone, last one i bought was just under the ton mark and works a treat,
Cheeky!!! The silly thing is JJ them cupboards have all got to be replaced soon,that's why I set them on fire. No doubt I'll have to go back when cupboards are being done.
ah the old burning cupboard complaint by the joiner, the thing is JJ the 3 things you have to do to get a good joint is 1. clean pipe n' fittings 2. flux it 3. make sure its hot enough, fail on any of those and it will leak, and if it does its a night mare with water in, so us plumbers make sure its hot enough, now from an uninitiated person , there are 2 things they look for, 1. pipework hanging in the breeze (too far off the surface) 2. burned surfaces, you can't have both,(yes i know about plumbers burn matts) they help but are a bloody nuisence, undersinks get scorched, live with it ,
I know Tomp. When fitting kitchens I'll do me own wet plumbing. I'll solder joints when altering the plumbing before installing the kitchen (if the plumbings being altered), but prefer to leave tails coming off the wall then use compression fittings to connect up (so there's no burn marks)
Its not so easy when your working with existing pipe work and cupboards though JJ.I have a matt which I use in areas of view but they are a pain in the @rse if I'm honest,but I agree with you in regards to fitting a new kitchen prep as much as possible.
Agreed PB. I meant when I'm fitting a kitchen and have took the old one out, then alter the plumbing to suit the new one. I've fitted a couple of Ikea kitchens where the location of the runs for plumbing need special consideration, due to the lack of a service void behind the units. Know what you mean about the mats too.
I find those mats absolutey fine. i usually hold them them temporarily in place with duct tape and in realy sensitive areas (e.g. along a painted skirting) use additonally aluminium foil. I've also tried that spray on gel to protect paintwork etc. It works Ok providing you are fairly quick! diymostthings
Tip time,,, If you haven't got an asbestos mat, use a piece of plasterboard to protect woodwork when soldering joints in situ. Another top tip from JJ.. (well the first of many I hope)
Tip time No2 ,if you have an airlock in your hot or cold gravity feed taps,you can suck the water through with a wet VAC.If you have one.
Forums
Facebook
Twitter
You Tube
Instagram
Shop