I was hoping I didn't have to resort to this, taking into consideration the work involved. Last resort maybe?
I would have brought the ceiling slope, so with bearers, the plasterboard would cover the hip rafters which are showing, & then there still enough behind plasterboard for additonal insulation.
Don't think it's as much work as you imagine, 2 slopes wouldn't take too long even if you did it yourself, there is paint flaking off the ceiling that needs addressing anyway.
Good photos - I think they show what the issue is; a howling cold wind flying up that side of the bare plasterboard ceiling, especially around the slopes and also around the downlighters which (correctly) don't have insulation over them. Solution? Insulate that ceiling... Options? You cannot insulate that slope to any huge degree that I can think of without risking reducing the ventilation to below the required degree - you are 'meant' to have a 50mm vent gap. Yes, peeps have reduced that without issue, but I;d still say that trying to add an even and 'sealed' level of insulation on that side is going to be a 'mare. (By 'sealed' I mean an unbroken layer fitted tightly between the joists with no gaps, no air space between it and the p'board etc. So, ceiling down and redo using insulated p'board. You will likely end up with sharp corners where the slopes go down, but that's not really an issue. What is an issue is the work involved. Or, WallRock... Ignore the dreadful soundtrack: Ok, I have not used this stuff myself, but I do know the value of even a thin layer of insulation - it is VERY significant. You may even decide to add two layers, at right angles to each other. I would say that that will cure your problem. Plus: Downlighters - replace them with LED bulbs and then chuck insulation over them. Plus: Use the paints recommended by Astra.
That Wallrock looks a good shout for the sloping bits of ceiling, watched the vid and was surprised to see they do wallpaper for exterior walls too ! not sure i'd be brave enough to use it though
I've chust looked at your first photos of the ceiling - luckily the corners don't even appear to have 'compound' curves since there is a timber joist cutting through it! In theory laying on this WallRock should be very straight forward as it's a flat ceiling which curves smoothly downwards at each end, so it'll simply need trimming around the joist. Had that joist not been there, then you would have had to carry out some complex shaping in these 'compound' corners, but it looks to me as tho' you've gotten away with this. Blimey
Righteo, looks like WallRock it is then. Not particularly looking forward to this, having recently papered the entire house! Only consolation is it's 3.2mm thick, so should be straight forward. In fact could have done with some WallRock earlier in my utility room, but then again it is quite costly. Other then my kitchen extractor I'm using LED's, so I can go ahead and cover them with rock wool? Will keep you guys updated with the results, I feel pretty confident thanks to everyone on this forum, I'm extremely grateful. Just kicking myself why I didn't come onto the forum a lot earlier, would have saved me so much time, hassle and money! Many thanks!
Do not cover the downlighters regardless of lamp. Cutting a hole in a ceiling is creating a passageway for fire to spread, so fit some fire hoods for your downlighters then insulation can then be place around the fitting. Some peeps on here use clay flowerpots, as they are cheap & will do the same job. It's all covered in the Building Regulations - Fire safety is Part B.
Blimey, I always thought it was in case the actual downlighters themselves went on fire! Ooops - so, yes, as KIAB says. Fire hoods and then insulation on top. At the moment, the warm damp air is being drawn through the gaps around your lights like a chimney effect, almost immediately condensing on the cold surfaces above - ergo nasty stains around your lights. That's my guess, anyways. If are only going to apply s single layer of Wallrock, then I'd recommend going for the thicker - their best - stuff. But if two layer (surely worth it, to be sure to be sure?) then either the 3 or 4mm stuff. But please check with WallRock that it's ok to layer them like this - that they will stick to eachother using the same adhesive. And no doubt you'd need to ensure that the first is fully dry before applying the second. And keep the room's ventilation going too... By all means you can also add a thin layer - 50mm-ish? - of normal loft insulation down the slopes as well, provided you don't narrow that gap too much - keep it pressed nicely against the p'board surface. And also ensure it doesn't get bunched up at the bottom where it may block some of the eaves venting.
Fire hoods yes, but I don't like insulation on top of them, insulation around them is ok. If downlighters are fire rated, then I think hoods are not required,but I have still fit them.
Hi guys, first and foremost apologies to everyone for the delay in replying, particularly to those facing similar damp issues looking for answers and more importantly to those that provided helpful advice. I was somewhat reluctant in replying, as I didn't quite follow the advice given. Due to the lack of time available (and being a cheapskate) I tried to approach it with the least cost incurred/work involved possible (although I'm aware this may fail miserably and therefore cost more time and money in the long run). I've been quite busy, so much so I ignored the damp altogether as you can see from the below photos, worse than before: For insulation I purchased 75mm Rockwool and 25mm Celotex. As the eaves are quite deep and hard to gain access to I thought rather than attempting to tediously insert Rockwool, perhaps if I purchased Celotex and cut it to size, I would be able to simply slide both insulations together at the same time. This worked great. The idea was to then insert a foot of 1"x1" mdf between the Celotex and felt, therefore creating a passage for ventilation. Yep, wishful thinking or rather just being dumb... of course there was no room. So directly above the bath there's virtually little to no ventilation... The only reason why I decided to let this slide is because the roof is approx. 15/20 years old. There's already quite a lot of draft and ventilation. Also in 1 or 2 years time I'll be looking to convert the loft so perhaps I can make do temporarily? I placed the excess Celotex above the Rockwool. Have yet to tape up the vent as per earlier advice given. Thankfully since then the ceiling is no longer forming any moisture. I waited for a couple of weeks to let the damp dry and then sprayed HG Mould Spray (Amazon - £6), left it for half hour as instructed and approx. 95% of the mould/damp completely disappeared even without me having to wipe it away! So it seems it looked a lot worse then it actually was.. simply sitting on the surface paint. I'm guessing I no longer need to give it a coat of Everbuild 406 Stabiliser. Either Dulux Diamond Eggshell/ Crown 'Extreem' or kitchen & bathroom paint: http://www.johnstonespaint.com/paint-types/interior-walls-ceilings/kitchen-bathroom-emulsion as Astramax and BMC2000 have suggested? Apologies for my novice workmanship and cutting corners despite the correct professional advice given..
V8, cant remember, but did anyone mention your extractor fan. Unless anyone else has a better idea, I would not mount that on the wall but in the ceiling. The position it's at, isn't clearing the air from the ceiling surface. Just something else to help in the future. As you have room up top in the loft I would think it would be an easy job to move. Otherwise, what you have done looks a reasonable job. Well done.
The extractor fan/light you have installed is a total waste of time. You need a proper inline fan such as this. http://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-mf100-100mm-mixed-flow-fan/26867 Check out the extraction rata aginst the one you have.
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