Pine skirting board gaps filling advice

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Crumbs, Oct 3, 2016.

  1. Crumbs

    Crumbs Member

    Hi, i have replaced a rooms skirting boards (first for me) but when flush there are gaps along the tops. I know this is normally caulked and painted though i am planning on varnishing the pine wood so i dont think id be able use varnish on caulk and leaving it white would not look good. Do i?

    use a flexible wood filler i can varnish like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/ronseal-multipurpose-wood-filler-natural-310ml/50971

    or caulk it and match the walls colour? thx :rolleyes:
     
  2. Bertiebasset

    Bertiebasset Member

    How big a gap along the tops are we talking? was it yourself who fitted the skirting? what type of skirting board is it? pine softwood? what you want ideally is caulk to match the wall, not a filler to match the wood along the walls join break. moreover, colour co-ordinated caulk is also available

    I would suggest trying if possible to solve the cause of the gaps first to see if you can get your skirting flush as possible to the wall before resorting to do any filling.

    depending on your gaps size , i would most definatley caulk it to the wall, keep it tidy, myself personally i would have varnished the skirting's first, leave to dry then fixed in place. but that's my preference, everyone's different.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  3. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    It is a problem even very experienced people struggle with and there isn't much you can do to the skirting or wall to rectify easily.

    "Noticeability" will obviously depend on the wall finish (papered or painted) and its position with in a room. If you have a few large gaps (big enough to slide a pencil in) you may want to consider putting some expanding foam in. This will not only stop some movement but help support the filler to stop it sagging and cracking. The foam is quite expensive £7 a can - so you may want to find some other gaps to seal as well

    There are lots of "tricks" about mixing the timber sawdust with PVA to get the colour to match but that only really works if you can give it a good sand afterwards, which against the wall is going to be difficult.

    If you want to use varnish to seal the skirting, I would suggest you apply the varnish and then seal the gaps. This way it will be easier to wipe off any excess and you wont' get colour changes where the mastik reacts with the varnish.

    Whilst the Ronseal product will work, have a look at floor mastick intended for laminate floor http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-wood-flooring-sealant-oak-310ml/50081?_requestid=77592.

    Screwfix only do light oak but some flooring companies do more colours
     
  4. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    As long as the skirting is 'straight' and not screwed tight to follow every undulation of the wall, then you'll be fine with filling the gap and painting to match the wall. This gives a better illusion and is not generally noticeable. If you fill to match the skirting, then this will stand out a lot more.

    If you carefully mask the top edge, You can caulk/fill the gap, then cut in with wall colour once dry...leave a couple of days before painting.
     
    GoodwithWood likes this.
  5. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Use a decent premium grade caulk though as these won't shrink and crack like the 'cheepo' brands.
     
  6. Crumbs

    Crumbs Member

    thanks all! appreciate the great advice!:rolleyes: The gap varies from a few mm up to 6mm in places. Skirting has been fixed by myself and is a pine softwood from wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Dual-Purpose-Pine-Large-Round-Chamfered-Skirting-15-x-95-x-2400mm-Pack-4/p/120620

    I cut them to fit the non rounded version of the skirting, turning it over, it does fit more flush using the rounded way? Maybe i shouldnt of used that one??? I thought it was a dual design

    Will look at the walls see if i can get them a little more flat.
    Ill go with caulk and match the wall then, thinking about this - it should be look better. Another q for u guys, maybe a stupid one... can i varnish the skirting before i put it up - just thinking if no nonsense grab will stick to varnish OK? I plan to screw it to the stud / and screw/plug on the masonary but will put a little glue on i tihnk too so i dont have to have to many holes. :)
     
  7. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Only varnish the visible side. One of the best ways to fix the skirting is to use a an expanding foam glue http://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta-stik-expanding-foam-grab-adhesive-gun-grade-750ml/72793
     
  8. Bertiebasset

    Bertiebasset Member

    No issue with Varnishing before you put it up. Simply varnish the face of it, no need to cover the back at all. Before you go drilling and screwing into things, have a decent look at the walls, see how flat and flush you can get your skirtings, if youc an get them pretty flush, go with grab adhesive, if you really feel you need to use fixings, use the hidden method.

    Make sure you scribe the skirting to the floor too, or keep it as tight as you can to the floor.

    Preparation is key in everything, get your prep right, everything else will be easy.

    Bertie
     
  9. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Try and avoid traditional grab adhesive and using screws and plugs. Traditional grab adhesive is very pungent (noxious) and is not the best when you have large gaps. I have experimented over the years with non solvent grab adhesive to fix timber with very mixed results so stopped using it. To fix skirtings I now use the expanding foam adhesive http://www.screwfix.com/p/dow-insta-stik-expanding-foam-grab-adhesive-gun-grade-750ml/72793

    A few of us sprinkle dust mite and insect powder behind the skirtings before fixings as this will eliminate any critters found in modern homes.
     
  10. dwlondon

    dwlondon Active Member

    There just might be a few high points on the plastering, which if you scrape off will help get the skirting in tighter. Quite often its a drywall screw.
     
  11. Rob_bv

    Rob_bv Active Member

    Wait, what? Do you have a photo of how you are fitting them?
     
  12. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select


    Think he means dual profile. Bull-nose or flip it for the other(can't remember the name) long taper with narrow rounded top.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  13. Rob_bv

    Rob_bv Active Member

    I've just got a vision in my head that he's fitted the skirting back-to-front and is trying to fill the gap left by the rebate! ;)
     
  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Torus or Ogee usually.
     
  15. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Or pencil round and chamfered and pencil round.
     
  16. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I was thinking this:

    skirt.JPG
    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
    Bertiebasset likes this.
  17. Bertiebasset

    Bertiebasset Member

    Any chance of a few photos of what you have done with the Skirting so far?
     
  18. Crumbs

    Crumbs Member

    Yea its the dual profile stuff i linked, using the chamfered profile end.
    Skirtings not fixed as only just finshed painting, but there is a pic of it dry fitted. Sospan thanks for the tip bud, that sounds perfect.
    Nails i am worried about it splitting the wood through the force, screws will leave holes (not nice on varnished) and not sure if the grab adhesive will do that well due to the walls being a bit off, stuff sounds ideal - surprised its not recommended often. Pricey but least the job is done good, will need some bracing though, does it grab quickly? :rolleyes::rolleyes:
     

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  19. Crumbs

    Crumbs Member

  20. Rob_bv

    Rob_bv Active Member

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