Plastering a wall, Any Guide out there on how to do it?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by wau5, Sep 25, 2016.

  1. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    I have about 80m2 of plasterboard that I want to try and plaster myself, have never done this before and heard it's not as easy and takes some skill.. sooo I want to try to learn it. What's the worst that can happen? :D
    I have finished countless of plasterboard walls abroad by just taping up joints/filling joints and screw heads with a product that is similar to your -gyproc easy fill and than just sanding it, that's how the rest of the europe do their walls. But I can see some advantages by putting on that red stuff so I want to try and learn to use it.

    I checked there are countless of videos on YT on how to do it, but each is a bit different.
    Wanted to ask if someone has learned this stuff himself maybe someone could point me in a right direction to some online article/video which would be the best to follow?
    Also I see I will need a larger trowel/spatula or whatever that thing is called, can anyone suggest me a good one to buy?

    thanks.
     
  2. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    Also if you got any crucial tips that someone should know before doing it that, would be great if could share them :)
    also about how long time do your reckon it would take someone to do 80m2 of just almost straight walls?
    and after finishing it can you sand that stuff a bit to remove any imperfections? I tried to sand that stuff once and it was tough as a nails and didn't really liked that it's being sanded..

    Also.. I'm pretty sure I will probably mess up my first wall, how long time does it takes to dry before you can start over and re-do it just in case? :D
     
  3. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    This is about 2- 3 days work for a decent pro, so by the time you've bought some kit to do the work, you won't be a million miles off the cost of a days professional plastering. Just something to consider before starting :)
     
  4. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    was going to do it anyway myself,and would take me the said 2-3days as well, so might as well try to learn in this way.
     
  5. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Without being rude, a big part of this depends on the finish that you want / expect and also, if your then expecting to just paint over the skim

    For a novice wishing to learn, seems a big job to take on for the first attempt. Maybe 2-3 days getting the plaster on the wall but. How many days then going over the stuff and sorting out the blemishes

    Realise your labour is free but sometimes you just have to be realistic, although fair play for the have a go attitude

    DA has some experience with DIY plastering and loads of advise / advice / both in fact. Hopefully he may well offer you his wisdom :)
     
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Just pay a pro to do the job, 80m2 to plaster isn't a small area for some who has never plastered before.

    Get it wrong,it's an expensive way to learn to plaster when you have to get someone to sort it out your mistakes.:)
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2016
    philthespark likes this.
  7. philthespark

    philthespark Active Member

    I,ve just done about 10sq mtrs as part of a refurb,I,m a spark and don,t normally do plastering except for patching,the guy asked me to do it as it was not in an area that was on show and he wanted to save a bit of time and money.It's not as good as a proper plasterer would have done but the guy is happy,he couldn't get a plasterer in the timescale for the job and the one he used last time was worse than me.However what I would say is that it was 24 degrees centigrade on the day I did the job,I had all the right tools,hawk,float,internal and external corner trowels as well as a margin trowel and power mixer and it was hard going! It's a delicate balance,how much plaster do you mix in one go,how smooth you try to get it before waiting for final polish,once the mix starts to go off you'll never get a decent finish on the wall.I've seen a lot of amateurs make a mess by playing with it for too long,you have to know how far to go with it,then know how long to wait before you splash water on it and polish out the final marks.To be honest I'd start with a small area and see how I went on with that,the tools are not cheap and without them you will struggle.For an area that size I think I'd employ someone,a hawk is going to set you back at least £15,a good float about £25,the other trowels about £15 each,fine if you can do it and have more work but for a one off I'd bite the bullet and get someone in.It may look easy when you watch a professional but that's just it,I make my job look easy but then again I've been doing it for over 30 years,it's the experience and skill that makes any job look easy.
     
    wau5, Deleted member 33931 and KIAB like this.
  8. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Agree Phil, my Refina Plaziflex Plastic trowel alone cost £25, once you add in other trowels cost soon go up, not worth the expense for a one off job.

    As for splashing water on,occasionally still use a brush, but I tend to use a spray bottle/ sprayer now, less messy.:)
     
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  9. Wau, what's the worse that can happen, you ask...

    Actually, the worst is that you'll spend a loooong time sanding and filling if it goes wrong :)

    Actually, possibly the worst is if you mistime it and try and use plaster that's started to go orf - you then run the real risk of it not adhering properly - and that would be a 'mare.

    But but but - should you give it a bash? Of course! :)

    I've written speils on this, and really can't be arrissed doing so again, so really it's a case of watching videos and going for it.

    What I would say is, aim for sections you can manage at a time - one small, contained wall; stop at the corners!

    Use a proper mixing tool you put in a drill.

    Get a good trowel - the one KIAB keeps going on about sounds good :rolleyes:

    Have decent lighting, sat at a lowish angle to the wall at the far end - especially important when you are 'polishing' and getting the finish to its best.

    Apply the first coat and get it basically level with no major tramlines and/or hollows. Then get the next coat on top - starting at the same point as before, so the first coat will have firmed up a bit by having some of its water drawn oot by the 'board.

    Once the second coat is on, don't fuss over it - just get it 'on' and levelled and flatten out any major tramlines and fill in any major hollows - do NOT try and get it smooth, 'cos it won't. 'Cos it's soft.

    You need to wait until it starts to go a bit like 'plasticine' - thick and can be pressed into shape. Only then can you really start to smoothen it orf. Of course, you then only have a certain 'window' to play with...

    The more it sets, the harder you can press with the blade if need be to smoothen it off, so the progressively better the finish you'll get.

    When you go over it for the final polishing stages, you m ay well be holding the trowel blade at a goodly 45o so's to 'scrape' the surface, removing any sticky-out bits that shouldn't be...

    I use a spray-bottle too - at the end it's spray-wipe, spray-wipe...

    Good news - when you finish, it'll look GREAT! A nice smooth deep pink - yummy.

    Bad news - then it'll dry and look a bit pants... Light pink with obvious hollows, ridges, and other nasties. Probably.

    Nice low-angle light - flat sanding block and 400-ish grit (coarse-ish, but make sure it doesn't leave scratches - go finer if it does) and a good dust mask. Work over the worst of it, but don't fuss too much.

    Brush it down, give it a diluted coat of matt emulsion (around 20% water) and - more good news - it'll look darned good again!

    Once this coat has dried, you can then decide if it's ok or whether there's more localised sanding to be done, or even a wipe over with surface filler in any hollows.

    The next wall you do will likely be better - since you don;t have anyone there to guide you, it'll be a case of learning by your 'mistakes'. Which is fine.

    When you come to do the next wall, watch out for the first wall drawing out water from your fresh skim and ending up with dry crumbling plaster along the corner - you may need to spray the freshly-done edge first to stop it drawing.

    Enjoy - it is GREAT fun. Frustrating and rewarding in equal measures... :rolleyes:
     
    wau5 likes this.
  10. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    Thank you Devil for taking your time and writing it all up :)
    some great tips that I didn't even thought about :)
    I have watched probably 2 hours worth of videos and I'm fairly sure I have everything covered to get started, now have to go and buy some tools.

    Now I got few more questions :D

    -Do i need to apply any PVA coat on a fresh plasterboard? I will be using the thistle red stuff from b&q, says on the packaging that it doesn't needs.
    -do I need the large long darby? In all of the videos I watched they didn't used one,not really sure why I would need one as well.
    -What other trowels there are I need except the big one?
    -Do i need the corner trowels? If so would some cheapo ones like these would be ok? I'm fairly sure I will be able to make the corners nice enough even without those corner trowels, but just in case...
    [​IMG]
    -I saw you can buy some trowel in screwfix for £6.99 and the reviews says it's very decent, I realize it won't be as good as that £25 one but yes this probably is for an one-off job, would it still be ok'ish?
    http://www.screwfix.com/p/forge-steel-plastering-trowel-11-x-4/3581c
    [​IMG]

    this is the stuff I got now:
    -buckets for mixing it
    -drill mixer
    -some bucket trowels/different spatulas/jointing knife
    -spray bottle
    -large brush

    This is the stuff I plan to buy:
    -that £6.99 trowel from screwfix
    -corner trowels just in case
    -hawk

    Anything else I'm missing?

    This will probably be an one-off job,so I do not want to get the top of the range stuff at the moment, if I can get something that is still decent and costs a bit more than the cheapo stuff that sounds great for me.





    -
     
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Just buy a standard size 11" Ish trowel...Ragni are good value for money. You don't need any corner trowels or Darby. :)
     
    wau5 likes this.
  12. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    you are not being rude ;)
    I have put on decorative stuff/plaster on 2house outside walls to finish them off,not sure what's the english name of it exactly, but seems like a very similar task.
    my first half of the first wall came out pretty nasty, 2nd half of the wall came out a bit better. 2nd wall came out pretty good, 3rd/4th wall came out even better or almost perfect. 2nd house I did came up just perfect now that I had some experience.

    Just takes some time to learn the stuff I guess, I realize my first wall will probably come out pretty bad that I will have to re-do it, but that's the price you have to pay to learn something isn't it?
     
  13. NO! NO PVA! (Except when it's needed in some exceptional areas. But not of fresh p'baord.)

    Corners - really, you should fit plastic (or stainless steel) corner beading on external corners - perfect finish and really strong.

    Don't know which trowels to recommend. I'd be tempted by the plastic one KIAB goes orn about, tho' - looks interesting. Don't forget you are about to save yourself a £ew hundred, so why not £25-odd on a decent trowel.

    After all, if you buy a cheapie, you'll chust blame it when it all goes pear-shaped...


    Once last tip: go for it as tho' you are already a pro, or at least as if you know what you are doing. Intimidate that wall... :). Pretend it's your buddy - after all, you are going to get plastered together... :rolleyes:
     
    wau5 likes this.
  14. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    hahah thanks man :D
    well I will have a go at it in a couple of days once I have finished all the other works needed before I get to the plastering part and report back.
     
  15. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Many advantages old chap, blade is replaceable, blade is available in various lengths, it's has a slight flex, you can't cut yourself with a plastic blade, like you can with a metal one.:rolleyes:
    Any nicks in blade can be rub out out with fine sandpaper,trowel is lighter, not so tiring on the arms,& it's easier to polish off with one.:)





    And good light is a must.
     
    Last edited: Sep 26, 2016
    wau5 likes this.
  16. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    I am terrible at plastering but superb at getting plastered! :confused:
     
    KIAB likes this.
  17. philthespark

    philthespark Active Member

    If you are on plaserboard you shouldn't need a Darby,normally you only need them on old brickwork,you use them to get a level surface.Basically you put a laod of plaster on the wall and use the Darby to get an approximate level,then smooth it out with the float,the Darby just stops you getting massive differences in the finish,yes you can still get slight humps and hollows but they're only millimetres,on rough brick without one you can get massive humps and hollows.
     
    wau5 likes this.
  18. HouseE

    HouseE New Member

    There is a tutorial video of Stephen Norton where he explains how to plaster a wall:


    Use a trowel to place the mound of the veneer plaster onto the hawk and then scoop up some plaster with the trowel and then make sure that it is centered on its blade.


    Smear the plaster onto the wall with the trowel by using an unsweeping motion.Turn the trowel over and then work the plaster down.


    Maintain an even pressure whilst doing this to produce a thin,plaster coat and then continue working across the wall using a stepladder to reach higher areas.
     
    wau5 likes this.
  19. wau5

    wau5 Active Member

    ok I will be starting to plaster today, one more question. when I'm done with one wall, how soon can I start doing a ceiling where it crosses the first wall I have just done?
    must it fully dry or I will risk messing up the first wall by accidental swipe/bang/ loose material etc.?
     
  20. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I would let wall dry,a day all to easy to mark it, as it a skim will quickly dry.
     

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