Plastering work!

Not in the trade, but I'm pretty sure it is standard. As long as all the loose/blown plaster is gone and patched, then over-skimmed, sounds like a good job!

Mr. HandyAndy - Really

 

Difficult say 100%, but if it was bad as you say, I would have strip the lot off, then got a quote for replastering walls, not for making good by patching & skimming walls.

 

No, but if you have blown plaster, then it's pointless skimming it.

I got caught at my last past patching & skimming, front door slammed shut,only plaster left on one wall of hall was the new patches,most of the blown plaster which I skimmed fell off.

 

If you still have hollow spots, guess what, after its plastered you'll still have hollow spots, it does sound like it should have all come off and be re-plastered through out, but at the very least, all hollows spots need knocking off, patching and then skimmed over.

 

Hi G4.

It doesn't sound good.

Sometimes a few isolated patches come loose and the rest is relatively ok, and suitable for skimming. However, from what you say - large areas completely detached and loose, and some hollow-sounding areas still remaining - it does sound as tho' your bonding layer has had it, so a skim-over is only going to delay the inevitable.

How much is this possibly dodgy job costing you?

 

Just started a job today converting a bathroom into 2 shower rooms for an elderly couple. One with a knock through into bedroom as an ensuite. Various blown areas of plaster and as I was hacking back to good, It quickly became clear that it was best and potentially quicker to fetch the lot off back to brick and dab on some new PB's. This hadn't originally been quoted for but there was a contingency in the contract for such matters. A bit of extra work, but at least I know it's sound.

 

If i was getting a job done and they suggested dot and dab, I would be looking for another contractor.

 

It's not 1960. The architect doesn't have a problem with dot and dab.

 

Prefer the traditional ways of building,they were far superior in my opinion.

 

I won't disagree Deleted member 11267. There's a place for all methods as long as they're done properly.

 

Now't wrong with Dot & Dab,as CGN said, There's a place for all methods as long as they're done properly.

 

Agree. That's a bit dismissive, Dobs.

Been working on my sis's hoosie which is dot and dab. The walls are firm and very flat - no issues at all with the finish.

And when I had to remove some p'board to get access to the wall behind, I can confirm that 'dab' is bludy hard stuff and was not going to let go at all - it had to be chiselled off the blocks and it took the p'board's paper layer with it.

Only minor issue is that when mounting items to the wall, you have to allow the extra inch-and-a-bit to go through the p'board and gap behind - absolutely no big deal.

But being able to run socket cables down the tiny void was a genuine boon.

And, although it feels perfectly 'solid', if you were to trip and fall against it, it would be more forgiving than a solid plastered wall (I've fallen off a step-ladder against one of them and it wasn't very forgiving at all...)

Also it feels a bit warmer.

Dammit - it's dot and dab for me from now on...

 

Dot & dab insulated plasterboard like Kingspan Kooltherm K17 if you want a workout,insulation 25mm-30mm+ 12.5mm plasterboard, you also had to use a couple of nail in fixings & then finish with a skim coat.
Been a nice job in winter, but August was just too hot for the work.

 

Cowboys!

 

If you could be sure it would sort your problems, then that's fair enough (I think?).

But I fear it won't. If you can still detect some hollow areas, then definitely not. Not long-term anyways.

Sometimes you'll even find that applying the wet skim will make the bonding layer expand and bow out even more .

Removing it all and starting again is a horrible, messy, dusty, smelly job. But I suspect the only job worth doing. (I fear, tho', if you ask these guys for a quote, it'll be £mega...)

(Obviously I cannot really tell for a couple of reasons - 1, I'm not there and 2, I'm not a plasterer... )

 

The plaster in my house sounds hollow in alot of areas but, it's celcon blocks with sand and cement bonding so it really only has a grip on the mortar between the blocks. in areas where I've had to chase the walls I've just taken it back to where it feels fairly sound and used Thistle hardwall to patch in. Not had any problems with it.
Of course, I'd agree a proper job is to strip back completely and do it all afresh but, as DA says it's a horrible job.