Platerboarding a wall

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by koolpc, Nov 8, 2014.

  1. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    I am goint to plasterboard a wall approx 14ft x 9ft.

    I am building the stud work with approx 400mm centres.

    What is the best way to lay / fix the 12.5 x 2.4 x 1.2 plasterboards? Have i got to stagger joints or can i just screw them on vertically? Do i need to lay the horizontally? Thanks
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Do them vertically.
     
  3. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    I notice that i cannot get equal 400 gaps across the wall and in some cases i am getting a few gaps of 250 etc to make sure i have 4 bats per board. is that right? One bat is used to secure 2 boards side by side.

    I am using tapered boards so can butt up to each other?
     
  4. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    If your building the studwork, how comes you can't get an even spacing.

    Using tapered boards I assume you are not planning on plastering over the whole wall.
     
  5. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    If i try equal spacing then i cant get a bat on the edge of a board.

    The whole wall is going to be plastered. I was advised to get tapered boards
     
  6. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    I can't see how you can't, if your start at one end then you will have a bat(as you call it) flush with the end of the plasterboard, then measure 1200mm, this is the center of a bat, then set two bats inbetween the two at equal distance, from the 1200 one measure 400 centers per bat and all should be well.
     
  7. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Cheers
     
  8. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Reading that the battens will in themself cause 'cold spots' on the wall. Is it anything to worry about? They are tanalised.
     
  9. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Insulate it if its going up against an existing brick or stone wall. There was no real need to use tanalized timber. You will need dwangs to catch the join at the top of the sheet if your using 2.4m sheets or use 3m sheets that will go from base to top.
     
  10. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Dwangs?

    Do you mean noggins? If so, i was thinking of pushing the whole sheet up to the top of the stud work and having the smaller pieces at the bottom. Does it matter if the main board is at the top or bottom?
     
  11. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Yeah noggins,up here in God's own country we call them dwangs. Why make life difficult for yourself, put the full sheet on the floor and lift up a cutting. Much easier, its getting plastered anyway.
     
    Jitender likes this.
  12. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    At 400 centers you will not need noggins, just use scrim tape over the joints and then plaster over the whole wall.
     
  13. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Oh yes you will:confused:
     
  14. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    Oh well must be load of bad walls out there that I have built over the last 30+ years then, mind I've never been called back to repair any cracks, so must be doing something right.:)
     
  15. joiner1959

    joiner1959 Active Member

    Not doubting for a minute your professional expertise but given that the poster would appear to be a complete novice and is struggling to work out 400 centres etc, I felt a belt and braces approach would be best.
     
  16. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Put the stud work up. I am assuming i will only need noggins where the big sheets meet the smaller cuts of board along the bottom or the top?
     
  17. In theory, yes. You definitely need noggins where two sheets edges meet.

    The opinion seems to be you'd also be sensible to add additional noggins too, even tho' your centres are the narrower 400mm.

    If you really hate doing noggins, then just place a single extra one at around mid-way, chest-height. Best to have two, tho', and space them accordingly.

    Stagger them when fitting to adjacent uprights, so's it's easier to get screws/nails into them.

    Really, once you get going on this, it'll become a rhythm - have your chop saw set up; mark, chop, nail.

    You have a chop saw, don't you? Cheap ones are, er, cheap, but will easily do this kind of job. Worth it.
     
  18. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    No you will need noggins in the middle of the long runs, the horizontal joints should be fine at 400mm centers.

    Set it out like this.

    Stud-wall-1.jpg
     
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  19. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Cheers guys. Great help. The stud work is against an exterior wall that i am insulating.

    I will put extra noggins in then and insulate above and below them as normal. Thanks
     
  20. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Just another quick question.

    The studs are 25mm thick (Had a load given to me) and i have got 25mm insulation to go inbetween them and a vapour barrier over the top.

    Would it then be advantageous for me to put insulated plasterboard over the top of that? Thanks
     

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice