Priming bare wood with PVA

NNNNNNNNOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo...

Really not recommended; the PVA will likely 'reactivate' with the applied paint, and you are likely to get an unpleasant sticky surface to work on.

Want a simple solution? A one-coat wonder? Simple, durable, affordable?

Use... masonry paint.

Enjoy.

 

It is a problem - it really isn't best practice at all.

Plaster should be primed only with either thinned (with water) matt emulsion paint, or else a specialised plaster primer (if really, really needed).

(Try sanding down a wall that has PVA on it... )

 

Plaster isn't primed with pva. As DA has pointed out, it's primed with a thinned down coat of paint.

 

Seriously, masonry paint is your friend here - and you can have it made up in whatever shade you like at a paint outlet.

It's self-priming, durable, easy to apply, gives a nice finish, won't soak in excessively, etc.

Or, you could always go 'garden' paint - y'know, the stuff that Ronseal and others makes for sheds, fencing, etc. Nice stuff to use, but a but more pricey.

 

No need for dilution.

Ok, you could chust use orn'ary emulsion paint instead of masonry - I'd recommend matt rather than silk, 'cos silk looks pants.

(Though it might look ok on sawn timber - I dunno.)

The only potential issue is that you'll no doubt get some resin coming through where the knots are, so you might want to use stopper first.

But, really, any water-based paint should go straight on and be happy.

 

Quantum, how about posting a photo - and we'll give you some ideas on colour schemes...?

 

Hi all,

I saw this and signed up to the forum to add my two pennorth.

In my experience, diluted PVA is an excellent exterior bare wood base primer. Zinsser sell it as their Peel Stop Primer.

Advantages: It penetrates the wood. It sticks really well to just about anything including old paint, wood, metal, masonry. It can be overpainted with just about anything. It is flexible (desirable in any primer). It is transparent - if you get a little bit on some brickwork (surely not!?) it will be invisible when dry.

If anyone has used it and had a bad result, I'd like to hear, because I use it a lot - so I want to learn where not to use it before I screw something up!

Thanks.