radiator paint and sizing for wallpaper

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by Gordonmull, Aug 19, 2014.

  1. Gordonmull

    Gordonmull New Member

    Hi folks

    I was hoping you might be able to help a DIY decorating newbie.

    We have just painted our hall walls and now, sure enough, the radiator is looking shabby. The walls were painted with Leyland Trade Contract Matt in brilliant white. Looking at radiator paints, I've noticed a lot of them are just "white". Would it make an appreciable difference to use use white instead of brilliant white? Also do you have any recommendations on a good value for money brand for radiator paint? Obviously if I can avoid breaking the bank, I'd like that, but I do understand the meaning of "buy cheap, pay twice".

    The paper on the hall ceiling is starting to come away, so my other question is how much do I need to dilute wallpaper paste to use it as sizing? The ceiling looks like bare plaster underneath the paper.

    Actually, while I'm here, some of the coving has started to come away. It is a 3.5m piece, it starts at the corner of a pipe box, cut flat and is still fixed for about 30cm before starting to come away. It continues unfixed for 140cm and then is fixed the rest of the way up to the the piece that it is joined to. If it's important, there was a leak in this area. I had to break into the box with a pinch bar to get at the pipes, so it's probably that that's done it. (it actually turned out to be upstairs' pipes that were leaking, not the ones in the box grrr).

    Is there a reliable way to repair in-situ this or should I just take it down and replace it? If I do what are my chances of removing it and a) not damaging the adjoining piece and b) being able to put the same piece back up?

    Sorry for all the questions but I'd rather learn from other's wisdom than from my mistakes.

    Cheers

    Gord
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2014
  2. proby

    proby Active Member

    For radiator paint take your pick, every brand of White will be different. Bedec multi surface is pretty good, good rub down and a clean then two coat should be ok.
    If the ceiling paper is lifting you would be better with border adhesive, size is for sealing before papering.
    As for the coving you don't say what it's made of ie plaster? But to be honest I wouldn't faff about take it down and replace it, water has probably ruined it anyway. Bit difficult to say too much without pictures.
     
  3. Gordonmull

    Gordonmull New Member

    Hi proby, thanks for the reply and the advice.

    We're going to repaper the ceiling. I think it could be a bit beyond border adhesive. One sheet has practically fully come away far beyond the middle and we have rips in a few places.

    I sanded down a small bit of coving and it seems to be plaster. I've posted some pics on Flickr - https://www.flickr.com/photos/57278801@N04/sets/72157646221956179/

    If you need to see anything specific or need a close up of something, I can take some more.
     
  4. proby

    proby Active Member

    Ok so the ceiling paper is blown strip it off and clean down, should tell you on the paste packet what mix to use but basically quite thin so it soaks in. Don't mess about with the coving it'll look a mess, strip it off and replace it.
     
  5. supertosh

    supertosh Member

    I agree with Proby.. Strip the lot out and start again.. Even a pro decorator would have problems repairing the mess in the pics. Good Luck.
     
    Pauldecorator likes this.
  6. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I would strip the coving off and leave it off.
     
  7. Gordonmull

    Gordonmull New Member

    So get it down and chuck it out then. I think it would look a bit strange with the rest of the hall having coving and that section without it and if I took the whole lot down I'd have to repaper the walls, which I'm not keen on for both financial reasons and the fact that I've just painted the buggers.

    How much of a nightmare do I have on my hands to remove the bowed section without damaging the section it is joined to? Is it possible to just run a hacksaw blade down the join e.g.? If the whole lot is going to need to come down then so be it but if I can have a go at salvaging the rest of it I'd rather give that a go first.
     
  8. proby

    proby Active Member

    You could do that with a sharp knife to cut it out, fit a new piece in and blend in with filler. It will never be brilliant job but it might be ok ish.
     
    Pauldecorator likes this.
  9. Gordonmull

    Gordonmull New Member

    Just had another look at it and there is a straight join about 8" from the mitre. That 8" is still attached and ok, so at least I don't need to worry about a mitre that may or may not be 45 deg, although I do have to hope that whoever did the straight join could saw straight.

    Other half has found some similar looking paper to redo the box, OK it won't be perfect but it should be barely noticeable unless you look for it.

    On the first three photos in the album you can see the brown stain on the ceiling. On pics 2 and 3 it's just inside the yellow light. Will sizing be enough keep this out when the new paper goes up or do I need to put some kind of sealant on it first? I was doing a fair bit of reading last night and heard of stains like these bleeding through to the finished work. I was doing so much reading last night that my head's kind of spinning with it. Sorry, I should have asked this earlier but it just popped into my head.
     
  10. proby

    proby Active Member

    Water stains must be sealed or it will bleed through. Some use oil based undercoat, can't say as I have never used it I used polycell or ever build stain block on something like that it's dry in minutes.
     
  11. supertosh

    supertosh Member

    A coat of undercoat on the stains will hold them back. I use gloss as its none porous but undercoat will do.
     
    Pauldecorator likes this.
  12. Gordon, it's hard to see from your pics just what gap(s) have opened up betwixt the coving and the wall/ceiling - can you tell us (a) how big is the gap and (b) can you push the coving pretty much back up to close the gap?

    If everything is perfectly dry up there now, then - provided you can push that gap closed to within a couple of mm - what I would do is inject solvent-free adhesive (water-based) like http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-grab-adhesive-solvent-free-white-310ml/87451 or possibly something a bit different like http://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-sealant-adhesive-white-290ml/72264 fully into the gaps (ie: don't trim the nozzle tip at all, but press it tight against the gap and 'inject' in. Depending on whether it'll help, you could even try flattening the tip with a pair of pliers to make a 'thin line' tip), press the coving back up as far as it will go, wipe off the extruded adhesive and support it the coving with props whilst the adhesive sets. If you use a nice square edge to clear away the excess, good chance it'll neatly finish any remaining gap there too, so jobbie jobbed.

    It'll be fine. It won't come down. How good it looks depends only on whether the coving has sagged so much it cannot be put straight again.

    Really worth papering the ceiling again? Why not strip and use a lightly textured paint - the 'ripple' type, not the grainy kind?

    Mind you, if you do wish to paint, you will have to thoroughly wash off all traces of W/P paste first.

    As for blocking stains, I think I'd recommend a new DIYer (as, er, you appear to be... :)) to use 'proper' stain block. You can use other solutions such as gloss paint and some undercoats, but hey.

    Wash the stain to get rid of any 'sediment' that might be coating the surface, and perhaps even very lightly sand the surface first too - you may be surprised by how much it lightens with just this. Then the stain block will have less of a job to do - and will adhere better too.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 20, 2014
    Pauldecorator likes this.
  13. Gordonmull

    Gordonmull New Member

    Thanks for all the help folks. The job is now well underway.

    The coving made the decision for me today as I was repairing the pipe box. Banged a nail in and then "Crack!". The coving was hanging by a thread. I got it down without bursting anything and it seems straight and unbuckled so I'll have a bash at putting it back.

    Devil's Advocate, I'm truely a newbie to painting and decorating! Do you have any recommendations for the textured paint? Long term that sounds like a better solution.
     
  14. Pauldecorator

    Pauldecorator New Member

    R
    When painting radiators use johnstones radiator enamel available in B&M stores and is the real stuff and like hamerite ie thinners needed for cleaning,although oil based radiator will dry in 15 min cold and I use this on storage heaters and will stay white for year no probs .I have over 25 years experience and only use Dulux trade but johnstones radiator enamel is best paint for radiators .
     
    supertosh likes this.

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