Raising double socket options

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by DJU, Aug 19, 2014.

  1. Beefstu

    Beefstu Member

    Why will no body use insulated crimps?
     
  2. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member


    RCDs Are good :D
     
  3. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

    Enough! Yes a rewire would be best. But if the existing install is in good order and a rewire is not an option then JBs under the floor and pulling in new legs where possible is an acceptable solution.
    Not like a nice shiny new installation I admit. But then it is not a new installation. The op just wants to raise his sockets a bit.
    RCD not required if modifying an existing circuit that is not in a special location.
    If it were my home I would rewire but then I have the tools & skills to do this.
     
  4. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

    I find that insulated crimps seem a little rubbish with solid core cable. Always a case of heat shrink and fingers crossed.
     
    Rulland likes this.
  5. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    metro, JBs under floor is NOT an acceptable solution. They are not maintenance free and the practice has caused no end of problems over the years when trying to find faults in circuits due to inaccessible bloody junction boxes!
     
  6. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    metro, you don't have to replace wiring just because its red and black. You appear to be guessing rather than knowing. Best not to advise if you really don't know.
     
  7. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Of course they will. I use them regularly as a maintenance-free joint. The issue is they are a stage too far for DIYers who just want to get something done quickly. They won't buy the crimps (minimum packets of 100) and they won't buy the crimping tool. Result take the easy way out and use wrongly a junction box.
     
    Beefstu likes this.
  8. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

  9. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

  10. JP.

    JP. Screwfix Select

    Afternoon Fats. Sounds good m8 - if I ever needed to use one now know what to use with confidence. Cheers Fats.
     
    FatHands likes this.
  11. Bazza-spark

    Bazza-spark Screwfix Select

    A perfectly acceptable solution as are many others if you were moving one socket outlet, but the OP is talking about multiple sockets.

    Adding multiple joints is adding to the risk of high resistances and a potential fire risk. In the case of what the OP wants to do I would suggest partial rewiring at a minimum, ie where possible move the socket sideways to gain enough cable on 1 leg then replace the other leg if this is viable.

    If not then I would either leave as is or look for a rewire.

    Kind regards

    BS
     
  12. flateric

    flateric Well-Known Member

    Are we still lifting these sockets they should be about 35 foot above floor level now :D
     
  13. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

  14. Sparks.

    Sparks. Member

    JP, out of interest why would you not use crimps? I find them great in situations like this. I allow enough length to crimp each conductor and apply separate heat shrink over each one. I 'step' them so they don't form a 'fat' joint if you know what I mean. Then a shrink over the whole lot. Looks pretty neat and a really strong joint. :)
     
  15. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

    Did a big kitchen last year and installed 32 down lights. Every one had its own junction box under the floor above.
    I thought this was the best way.
     
  16. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Just the thoughts of a diy'er here metro;

    The use of JBs in this instance seems fine and an accepted method for a couple if reasons;

    1. Each down light acts as a marker to where each JB is located

    2. Access to the JB is achieved by dropping the light out of the ceiling and gently pulling the excess cable through the hole (assuming excess cable has been left, pushed away from the light fitting so heat damage isn't an issue)

    With JBs used under floors and in ceiling voids, when fault finding the problem is you just don't know where they are. Taking up floor coverings and floorboards takes time and you may be looking in the wrong place anyway for a JB, which may not be the cause of the fault anyway

    I guess though tens of thousands of houses around the country have numerous burried JBs, fitted when the house was built or re wired or additional work has been carried out

    I wonder statistically how many faults are traced back to loose terminations in JBs

    I'm sure the pros will have some input on this ?
     
  17. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Just the knowledge of a professional here DIYDave :D

    Conventional junction boxes do not have a flex restraint facility. It is possible to pull on the wiring or flex and pull it out of the jb housing and even pull one or more conductors out of the wiring terminals. Conventional jb's are supposed to be permanently fixed to a secure fixing point, like a joist for example, and the wiring entering the jb clipped so it cannot be pulled out of the jb. There is more to it than just accessibility. :)

    Maintenance free options have to be carefully chosen. Some, like wagos, do not have flex restraints and the wires need to be clipped as well. The type of acceptable joint for ceiling mounted spots would be one where it is secured to the wire and can be pulled out of the ceiling without compromising the joint. Choc boxes are excellent for this.
     
  18. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Apologies then Un, I'm talking outta my backside and am wrong - a classic case of a little knowledge is a dangerous thing for an amateur !

    I take all the points about flex restraint and JBs being permanently fixed with wires clipped - yeah it makes sense

    As a pro, it must drive you mad seeing poor installation practices on so many jobs, ie how many JBs are installed like this and not just floating around in the ceiling void ?

    Most of the downlights I've seen fitted (admittedly not loads) have been connected with strip connectors, not even taped up, as the cheaper fittings tend to have a small wiring box, not big enough for 2 cables
    When I had my kitchen ripped out and re-fitted, the downlights were connected with 5A JBs. I thought at the time that looked better than a strip connector, but there are much better options available as you have pointed out - even the choc box

    But.......if they are used with downlights......do I at least get half a point for mentioning the location and accessibility of them :p (even if some heavy handed fool tugs at the cables and pulls it out of the JB)

    Cheers for pointing out the above Un....I have learnt something today so thank you :)
     
  19. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Screwfix Select

    Mine are all screwed to the joist sides with cables clipped. Keeps them away from any heat, although I only fit LEDs now.
    The only access is via the floor boards above.
    Connector strips in choc boxes floating around the ceiling void seems a bit messy. Just my 2p worth.
     
  20. Caddy

    Caddy Active Member

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