removal of internal load bearing wall in a 2nd floor flat

Get a builder in!

 

same

if you are unsure about supporting then no one can really offer sound advise without seeing it

be very careful, doing this wrong could prove very costly and dangerous

 

Your description sounds like a purlin ( double rafter) roof. Are there two struts on a plate sited from this wall to the purlins, connected by a collar? Or are there two posts (Queen post) which are vertical to the purlins with a straining beam?

Do the ceiling joists sit, lapped, on top of this wall or do they run parallel to it?

Any load which travels down through this wall will have to be propped, properly spaced and in-line, all the way down to the base of the building with the load spread across head and foot plates (scaffold boards). If the ground floor is timber then take up some floor boards to allow the foot plates and the props to sit on the concrete oversite.

You must not risk the floor joist being able to take the load from the roof.

 

Taking your description, your problem could possibly be solved by doing some work to the roof structure.

On the assumption that the purlins are supported at either end by corbels in the walls; affix a full width plate across the ceiling joists directly underneath each purlin. Then fix studs between the purlins and the foot plate, with birds beaks, in line with each (every) rafter. It may also prove wise to fit a collar, or collars, from purlin to purlin.

This is a job for an experienced carpenter who, upon inspection, will tell you if this is the right way to proceed with your roof. If it is, then after the work has been completed, the load from the roof will be removed from this wall and spread across all of the ceiling joists, so no propping necessary.

 

Just knock it down don't worry about it. Heres one that was done earlier


http://blogs.propertyfinder.com/outthere/upload/2006/07/nsmash28.jpg

 

Hee hee!

Many years ago I saw the aftermath of some idiots' work when they collapsed the roof of a bungalow. But the worst one I ever saw was when some men of Mediterranean appearance, collapse the front of a building above a shop front they were working on. They all scrambled into their van and drove off.

 

Possible way to do this job without interfering with the other flats.
I presume you have all the necessary approvals Building Regulations, Landlord? Freeholder? Adjoining flat owners etc.etc,
Objective to transfer load from existing purling from the top of the wall to a point lower down via a “U” shaped support.
Materials required two Acrow props length will be determined by distance between ceiling and underside of purling. Two lengths 12mm dia. threaded rod nuts and washers to suit, Timber props and supports. Two lengths of 225x75mm approx. 450mm long. Two lengths 175x75mm approx. 1.2m to 1.5m long to be determined as above. One length 100x25mm length, same as steel beam less length of pad stones.
1. Drill steel beam and screw 100x25mm board to bottom flange to receive plasterboard, keep back from beam ends so as to clear pad stones
2. Knock out holes in wall and build in pad stones, set at height so that when plasterboard fixed to underside of beam it can be finished flush with existing ceilings
3. Establish centre line of purling and project down through ceiling and mark vertical line down both sides of wall.
4. At low level knock hole through wall centrally to centre line and pass through one of the 450x225x75mm timber plates so that the projections either side of the wall are equal and wedge in place, make sure it is sitting on sound brick work not on the mortar.
5. Drill two 12mm holes on the centre line, through the bed joints in the wall, one approx 300mm above the installed timber plate and the other approx. a further 600 to 700mm above the first. Stand one of the 175x75mm timber props upright on the installed timber plate and hold flat against the wall, mark and cut props to length so that the top is flush with a bed joint, using the drill mark through the in the holes in the brickwork the face of the prop. Drill the two props and using the threaded rod bolt them together sandwiching the wall between. Make sure they are both standing firmly on the lower plate.
6. Knock a further hole through the wall sufficient to pass through the second 450x275x74mm plate with the projections equal both sides of the wall and fix firmly to the top of the props
7. Cut holes through the ceiling and pass through the Acrow props the lower end resting on the second plate, extend the Acrows sufficient to hold them in place NOTE THE ACROWS NEED TO BE EXTENDED EQUALLY and then screw them to the second plate and the underside of the purling. The Acrows can now be extended sufficiently to take the load off the existing prop
8. The top courses of brickwork can now be removed, only take down sufficient to allow the steel beam to pass between the Acrows into the roof space, remove existing prop and set aside, install steel beam and set on pad stones, cut original prop to length and fix in position, The Acrows can now be lowered equally to allow the load onto the new steel beam.
The rest as they say is academic
I am sure you will appreciate I have not seen this job so the above is your responsibility to ***** whether it suitable for your situation.
Best of luck.