Removing Radiator - Did plumber do the right thing?

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by diyguy83, Oct 4, 2015.

  1. diyguy83

    diyguy83 New Member

    Hello everyone,

    I need a bit help regarding this before I call the same plumber back. Our system was already drained as it was a repossession. We wanted our fridge/freezer in the utility room but the radiator was in the way. I asked the plumber to remove the radiator but to leave the pipes incase one day we wanted to put it back. I expected to have 2 pipes hanging capped or maybe them joined up with a isolating valve with it turned off. Currently what I have is a 2 pipes linked up that get very hot. I have also noticed some radiators do not get as hot as others despite the lock shield is open on full.

    My setup-
    My Boiler is sealed and is a HRM 20/24 with 10mm plastic microbore throughout. Pressure is currently at 1.5bar. Not a single flow system. The looped boiler is the closest radiator to the boiler.

    My questions-
    Is it right to create a constant loop on a system?
    Would it affect other radiators? ie balance.
    Because of the constant loop would it never balance as most of the flow is going through the loop?
    Would it be ok to have a loop and fit a isolating valve to turn it off?
     
  2. You don't need to create a constant loop between the otherwise capped of flow and returns to the remove rad.

    If a rad is going to be removed for an indefinite period I normally cap the flow and return with a stop end to prevent leaks.

    Has the plumber removed the valves and put a link in or are the valves still there?

    Because this is or was the closest rad to the boiler the water will take the path of least resistance so your getting a lot of flow round this "bypass"
     
  3. diyguy83

    diyguy83 New Member

    Hi Pete,
    I think plumber removed the valves that connect to the radiator and put in an elbow joint for both pipes so they link up. Looks just like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-pem0310wp-elbow-10mm/98280.

    We are not looking to hook the radiator up anytime soon but wanted to keep the pipes just incase one day we did.

    Would you say what he did was wrong and really should have capped it? Would alternative be put an isolation valve on it and turn it off?

    How do I tell the plumber what he did was wrong without sounding like a d*ck? If what he did was technically wrong.
     
  4. Yep an isolation valve would be a good plan, what he has done is create a path of least resistance, the water would much rather flow round this nice loop than take the effort to go to the furthest rad and heat that up.

    While I don't want to say what he has done is incorrect it's certainly something I would not do. I prefer to use an isolating valve, followed by a length of pipe followed by a stop end on both the flow and return.

    By doing it this way you can bleed the air out of the system and there is zero chance of a leak.

    Lastly I wouldn't worry about telling the plumber he is a d1ck as he clearly is one, whether this gets you anywhere is anyone's guess.

    If you don't fancy paying out to have it sorted what I would do Is have a hose ready on a drain off point with a correctly sized spanner lying next to it. (This is for when it may go Pete Tong).

    I would then very carefully and gently crush the pipe with a pair of grips to constrict the water flow. If you don't fancy doing this then drain it down and fit isolating valves and stop ends on both pipe. What he has effectively done is "unbalance" your central heating system.

    Good luck!
     
  5. If you don't fancy draining it down, buy a rothenburger freeze kit, freeZe the pipes, cut them and quickly stick an isolation valve on. (The boiler will need to be turned off and the water cold for this process.
     
  6. diyguy83

    diyguy83 New Member

    Hi Pete,
    I'm assuming you mean its something you wouldn't do? I've just seen you have changed it ;) Would you happen to have links to the bits I would need? I'm all for giving things a go if I know exactly what I need. I'm scared I'll freeze the pipes and the bits wont fit and I'd have wasted money doing this. I have no experience with central heating

    I might just call him back to do the job properly as I'm all for giving things a go but last thing I want is water everywhere. Weird thing is I'm not plumber and to me this set up seems weird. Especially since the pipes are next to our fridge.
     
  7. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Hire a eletric pipe freezer, better than rothenburger freeze kit.:), ortr get a plumber to sort it, if your not confident.
     
  8. I've had worse results with the rothenburger electric one than I do with there freeze cans. The can is fifteen quid and works well, when the ambient temperature is high I find the electric one struggles.
     
  9. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Rothenburger eletric pipe freezers are the biggest pile of c rap made, Freezer Master,Arctic or similar brand for me.
    The Rothenberger 8.8930 Plumb Freeze Eco thing is terrible, got given one, it wouldn't freeze a pipe, head ice up, but not the pipe properly.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2015
  10. 79038 is the screw fix code for the 10mm isolating valves.
    39981 is the screw fix code for the stop ends.

    Not sure how to post a link. You don't really need the stop ends but it reduces the chance of the valves getting knocked on by mistake or the valves letting by.

    You will probably need a couple of 10mm inserts to put in the pipe (the but which goes in the isolating valve) as it's possible the plumber didn't bother with these either. Before you go down this route, phone the plumber and explain that your rads are not working properly and you would like him to sort it.
     
  11. diyguy83

    diyguy83 New Member

    Thanks again Pete!
    Which inserts would I need and exactly how do they work? I'm scared I'll take the ends of and I'll be left tubing and nothing to to screw on. I'm guessing both ends of my pipe will have nuts that tighten onto other things like a isolating valve that can just screw on? Because at the moment its on an elbow.
     
  12. rd1

    rd1 Member

    Diy,
    why not post a pic of the pipe you have in situ, that includes the fittings and elbows, including the plastic or copper pipe that has been left or used by the plumber. The good people on here will then be able to tell you exactly what you need to sort if you are going to have ago yourself.
     
  13. If you cut the pipe just past the elbow cleanly, you then put a 10mm insert in and then the isolating valve will do up on this. Before this though I would get in contact with the plumber again and ask him to sort it.
     
  14. Honey cookoo prince

    Honey cookoo prince New Member

     
  15. Honey cookoo prince

    Honey cookoo prince New Member

    Regarding loop system and the radiator balance is more than DIY. I would suggest you to meet up a professional. DIY won’t be the right solution. Get your done plumbing through professionals, we got our plumbing done by Greencity plumbers. If you live in canada visit www.greencityplumber.ca . :)
     

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