Hi Jitender, Many thanks for posting. The end of the pipe is square - the clay elbow just lifted straight out. The drain connector you linked to looks good but its metric, so not sure if it will fit the existing clay pipe - i guess i will need to dig down a bit expose 75mm of pipe and pop a rubber adapter on. I will sit the bottle on some slabs. You make a good suggestion of having the bottle flush with the path and making a square around it. Roughly what distance would you allow between the end of the waste pipe to the top of the gully? I am also quite fortunate that SF and TS are nearby. Thanks for all your help Fats
I used the S/S464 on a recent job (Broken gully pot) and fitted into clay. It was only after visiting a local drainage specialist that i was made aware that this fitting was available, due to rubber fins it allows for slight varying sizes. The 110mm dimension refers to the plastic side of fitting. If you are refering to back fill I would say 150mm, as its only pedestrian use - but make sure all joints are sound and pushed home before backfill.
Ah, i see, thanks! Doesn't look like SF sell them although TS do (code 96056). So push this in to the cleaned clay pipe with a load of silicone around it? I have enough of this left to do the job although not sure if its suitable to go underground with cement tipped over it? So back fill is the water coming from the 40mm waste to the Gully? If so, yes, thats what i meant, thanks. 150mm it is! Thanks for your continued help. Regards, Fats
Just to confirm don't use silicone sealant, but silicone spray can be used to ease on the fitting - simple push fit. Back fill refers to the bedding and overlay material. Some plumbers put the 40mm waste 1" through the gully grid by cutting a hole. If youre creating a enclosure and benching you could cut leaving a 1" gap.
Ah, i think i have some silicone spray for the squeeky window rubbers on my car! Back fill - Of course, for some reason i thought it was a name for the original source of waste I think i will make an enclosure and leave a gap. Do you know if this pipe is OK to go underground? http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-soil-pipe-single-socket-grey-110mm-x-1m/27141 Thanks Fats
I was thinking you might ask that question... Its a shame they dont to shorter lengths of the UG pipe, as you only require about a foot. Although dimensionally the same. Wouldnt like to advise as I may be wrong. Although I have seen it used the other way round, in our last house someone had done the external stack in UG! I'm sure Tom will know the correct answer to this one.
Surely the underground stuff is inferior to the above ground(by virtue of the fact that the above ground stuff needs to be UV stable), so underground stuff shouldn't be used above, but above stuff is better quality than the UG, so would be better underground ? Surely? (I may be wrong!) Mr. HandyAndy - Really
All the difference I can see is that UG is to BS. I am under the impression it has a stronger/thicker wall due to being underground.
Evening chaps, Thanks for posting. A mate who does commercial plumbing just text saying there is no difference so think I will go ahead and use the grey I have unless anyone can suggest not to? any ideas on what materials for the back fill? About 1.5 m2 to fill. couple of bags of scalpings, couple sand, couple cement? thanks fats
Pretty sure it's as Mr Ha says - the 'orange' stuff ain't UV satble (leave it in the open for a few months and watch it get bleached!) The 'grey' pipe is also twice the price of t'orange, which suggest the UV element is a costly addition. (Strangely, the 'black' pipe is cheaper than the grey. Weird, man...) I would - and have - used grey below ground without concern.
I would say 4-5 bags of pea gravel. 1 bag cement, 3 sharp. 1.5m2 seems more thane you have dug out. . The cement mixture is only to be used to reinstate path. Use pea for pipe beddinhg and overlay, selected fill can go back in (i.e no sharps).
Morning chaps, Thanks for posting. HA - sorry mate, i ran out of "helpful answers" to use up, but i think you are spot on about the grey stuff being superior so plan to go ahead and use it later on. DA - Nice to hear you have used it in similar positions. Jitender - I am going to dig out the full width of the path (where the disc cutter has been - i thought i was going to go back to the in-line with both inspection covers. I went to Tradepoint this morning and got 4 bags of small gravel, 4 large. Will get the gully all in place and see how that covers. Typical, we are due heavy rain tonight! Do you think it will be OK to do this as long as its well covered? Thanks fats
if your weather forecast is anything like ours - a day of very heavy rain and winds - I'd be leaving it for a day, however well you cover, water tends to find it's way in and can make a right mess of the mix
Just seen a weather warning in the local paper. Will have to put off until Friday by the looks of it :'(
Morning, Manged to get the new pot in last night before the rain started, so covered it up and left it. Forecast is good for Friday/Saturday so hoping to finish then. I ran a hosepipe down and attempted to flood the bottle and couldn't find any leaks. Jit - That Mcalpine boot was brilliant! Spray of silicone and pushed in snuggly in the clay pipe. Cheers for that! What depth should the concrete be, and what mix? Also, shall i just hit a plank down on the end of the run were it meets the grass? Thanks as always. Fats
Good job, I can see you have made use of the spigot end of pipe saving you a fitting! I would try and cover the exposd pipe in more pea. Add framework/plank on path as mentioned. I can see there is circles on the grid so you could cut one out and insert waste through here. Depth keep same as existin path.Not to good on ratios but a 3:1 mix sounds about right (i.e. 3 sand, 1 cement).
hi, thanks for posting. Yes, luckily the two lengths of pipe i had left overboth had the spigots on them The pipe is totally covered in pea (photo before this was done). I will cut out the grid and pop the pipe through and planned to make a little box around the gully using half bricks/pieces of flagstone. Sorry, when i meant depth of concrete i mean from the existing path level. So, say the total depth (before being filled) was 300mm for example - 200mm gravel, 100mm concrete sound OK? The existing path is about 100, 150. As for the mix, the instructions state 1:1 or 1:5 with sand for a strong mix, othewise 3:1 as you say. Thanks for your continued help Fats
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