Reparing lime plaster walls

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Cornish Crofter, Nov 7, 2005.

  1. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    After removing lining paper from some lime plaster walls, I find they need some repair.

    No I know you can use one coat or patch using render and multi finish, but I'd like to consider using a similar material to the lime plaster.

    Problem is I've never done that before.

    After removing the loose plaster, what do I need and how do I use it? The areas to do will be a few inches wide to 3 feet wide.

    I want materials that I don't have to spend too much time preparing. I think the local builders merchants can sell me some of the special sand I'll need.

    Thanks in advance

    CC
     
  2. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    Oh well

    I'll just use onecoat then ;)

    No ideas then??

    CC
     
  3. jakeofalltrades

    jakeofalltrades New Member

    I'd like to consider using a similar material to the lime plaster.<

    What similar material would that be?
    Why not use lime mortar/plaster?
     
  4. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    Thanks for that suggestion - I used Renovating Plaster with the high impact finish - a system marketed by Tarmac and recommended for lime plaster walls.

    The base, renovating plaster mixes up like cake mix! It's really great to work with. The skim is strange though, as dj said on another thread it stiffens up i left unworked, so be prepaired.

    The hardest thing I found was to judge when to polish it off. I was advised to suck and see, so I did.

    I would be happy to use lime plaster another time, though I didn't - and still don't know what to get, and how to mix and apply it.

    CC
     
  5. dj.

    dj. New Member

    cc, when i first saw this thread i thought you were talking about lime mortar which is why i didn't comment, i don't do lime mortar, never have. i presume you have done the job now, but if you need any advice about "tilcon limelite" then please just shout.

    by the way, sid sends his love :)
     
  6. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    Yes I know sid's around. A good thing never lasts ;)

    Thanks for you offer of advice, I did infact read the other thread on this stuff that you helped with, so you helped two for the price of one, so I thank you for that as well :)

    I used a drill mixer for the renovating plaster, which made it fluffy. It's really great to apply.

    The only problem I had was with the high impact finish skim. I reas your bit about how it sets straight away, so I was prepared for that, but I did find it odd how it set. Unlike Thistle multi finish that's predictable, this was more difficult to feather in to the existing walls - I was doing patches you see.

    Wht approach do you normally use for this? I may be wiser next time.

    CC
     
  7. Hoskie

    Hoskie New Member

    CC how much did you pay per bag for you renovating plaster?
     
  8. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    Under a tenner plus vat from TP in Tavistock.

    CC
     
  9. panlid

    panlid New Member

    sid sends *** all.
    snitch;)

    [Edited by: admin21]
     
  10. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    I used to know someone who attracted all the nutters at bus stations etc, and I was always grateful that I didn't.

    I now know how he feels ;)

    CC
     
  11. dj.

    dj. New Member

    your thistle finish is only predictable because you know how it works, the limelite would be just as predictable if you were as familiar with the stuff. but basically the limelite finish is more gritty than thistle and it is more difficult to patch but i found to just keep using a wet trowel and avoid the dry troweling. one of the most impertant things i was told when i was learning was.. "look after the edges, the middle looks after itself."

    sid said to me that when he grows up he wants to be just like you

    dj.
     
  12. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    your thistle finish is only predictable because you
    know how it works, the limelite would be just as
    predictable if you were as familiar with the stuff.
    but basically the limelite finish is more gritty than
    thistle and it is more difficult to patch but i found
    to just keep using a wet trowel and avoid the dry
    troweling. one of the most impertant things i was
    told when i was learning was.. "look after the edges,
    the middle looks after itself."


    Thanks dj - good advice.

    sid said to me that when he grows up he wants to be
    just like you


    Oh please! one of me's bad enough ;)

    CC
     
  13. Bender

    Bender New Member

    HI there,

    I saw your post on repairing lime walls and thought I'd chip in and ask for a bit of help. Similar situation with patch repairing lime plaster walls, I'm down to the bare stone in places, some areas have an old undercoat plaster intact, and most is the original top coat of lime. Question is, what's best to use on the bare stone as a render mix? and subsequent top mixes??

    The wall is internal so not exposed to any weather extremes, I'm not a house conservationist so no qualms about using cement, gypsum etc. but I am not a plasterer so treat me like a n id i ot and you won't go far wrong!

    Your thread answers some of this but any more light to shed would be appreciated.

    Thanks...
     
  14. Cornish Crofter

    Cornish Crofter Active Member

    Tarmac renovating plaster with the appropriate limelite finish.

    The renovating plaster is light and fluffy, so you can put oodles of this on without it sinking down the walls.

    You can use a sand/cement mix but the problem is that it will not work too well with the existing lime plaster.

    Alternitively you can go for a sand/lime mix, which is what you've got on the walls anyway.

    CC
     
  15. greenlikeapples

    greenlikeapples New Member

    Hi I know this is an old post, but came across it as I was browsing something and thought I'd give some quick advice.

    The good thing about lime is it absorbs moisture, breathes. Unfortunately, using any normal/commercial plasters/fillers, you will lose that. It may also lead to your filling coming off, if moisture can build up behind it.

    Anyway, lime comes in two varieties, one is a permanently wet, putty, which can be mixed with a fine sand for finishing. Adding a bit of casting plaster will help it go off without cracking, which can be a problem because it responds to suction from the wall behind so drastically. The wall should be well wetted before using it. For deeper fills, the traditional product is the other kind of lime, called NHL 3.5 lime. This is mixed with sharp sand and horse hair, and gives a good thick backing coat. For intermediate layers, you can use a product called Ecomortar R50. This can also be used on non-lime surfaces as a type of scratch coat primer.

    Overall though, lime is tough to work with. It is not as nice to work with as a normal modern plaster, but its breathability and ecological benefits are great, and it feels really nice to have around. The suction issue, and its overall feel, make it very much more difficult to use. It takes some time to get to know it. Filling and small repairs might well work, even just using the putty with a bit of extra casting plaster, with the wall wetted first, but keep moistening it, before and after, to stop shrinkage cracks.

    Good luck! You'll need it with lime!
     
  16. Scouse30

    Scouse30 Member

    I know this is an old post but I need help on deciding what is best whether to repair the lime plaster on the chimney breast or board over? I do have some lime hemp plaster left over from another room so I could use this to repair the gouges and remove the loose plaster at the top of the chimney breast. But what about the screw holes and finishing plaster over what I have filled?
     

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