Replacing honeywell t6360B stat for a Heatmiser digital

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by david_csaba, Jul 15, 2016.

  1. david_csaba

    david_csaba New Member

    Hi there,

    I want to change my old manual stat for a new digital one.
    There are three options
    - Hetamiser Slimline
    - Heatmiser NeoStat
    - Heatmiser Smartstat
    all the three are mains powered and can replace an existing mains powered thermostat.
    My question is the wiring.
    The Honeywell has 4 wire
    honeywell.png
    terminal 1 - live in - brown
    terminal 2 - neutral - grey/blue
    terminal 3 - switched live - black/brown
    earth - green/yellow

    The heatmiser wirings:
    smartstat.PNG neostat.PNG slimline.PNG

    Is it really simple to put the brown into the live ins, grey into the neutrals and black into the live switched out?
    For example at the neostat I have to put the live in into the L and A1 terminal aswell?
    Sorry but I am not an electrician so that is why asking stupid questions just to make sure, look so obvious anyway.

    Thanks a lot.
    Thanks
     
  2. 14th edition

    14th edition Well-Known Member

    I would recommend you get a spark to do it....its a quick job! You could get these wrong and end up shorting it out! The stat is just a switch with a live in and switch line out, the older ones [and some new ones] also had a neutral to make them work more efficiently.
     
  3. peter palmer

    peter palmer Screwfix Select

    It looks ok what you are planning to do, bear in mind you need a deep box (35mm) chopping into the wall for some if not all of those stats, why not try a nest thermostat, those are surface mounted if not a little more complicated to wire up.
     
  4. stateit

    stateit Screwfix Select

    You'll need a link from Live to COM or A1 (depending on the stat) for the HeatMisers.
     
  5. Hi David.

    Sorry we didn't see your post before now.

    It's exactly as you say -

    BROWN (Live) goes to 'L' in all these variations.
    GREY with BLUE TAPE (Neutral) goes to 'N' in ditto.
    BLACK with BROWN TAPE (Switched Live) goes to 'NO' or 'A2' depending on which model you choose.

    And then you need an insulated wire link (a short length of the same type of single insulated cable, ideally coated in BROWN) needs to go from 'L' to either 'A1' or 'COM'.

    So, you got it right and you clearly know what you are doing - enjoy :)

    (Obviously you kill the power completely first...)
     
  6. stateit

    stateit Screwfix Select

    £60-£70 for Heatmiser vs £200 for Nest might have some bearing on matters...
     
  7. peter palmer

    peter palmer Screwfix Select

  8. david_csaba

    david_csaba New Member

    Thanks for the answers,
    and yes I was thinking of the NEST.
    The wiring looks like that.
    That means I have to put the live (brown) to terminal L and 3, the neutral to the terminal N, and the switched live goes the terminal 3. Is that right?
    What about that 3A fuse, is that definitely needed before wire the live in?
    Thanks again.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. A wee typo in your last post, David - "...the live (brown) to terminal L and 2"

    But, yes.

    That fuse (and the double-pole switch also shown in that diagram) already exist - it's whatever is currently supplying power to your CH system. Your boiler (and all the room 'stats, etc) will be supplied by a SINGLE FSU or even a plug plugged in to a socket - what is it you have?

    No additional fuse is required - that's the one that's in that FSU or plugtop.

    It is essential that there's only ONE source of leccy power to your WHOLE CH system.
     

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