Replacing ineffective bathroom extractor fan - advise please

Discussion in 'Engineers' Talk' started by Wagamama, Oct 25, 2016.

  1. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member

    This is a totally new project for me so would really appreciate some sound advice.

    Previous owner has left behind an inadequate extractor set up. See photos


    [​IMG]

    The small inline Manrose fan has very poor suction through the ceiling vent
    and the ducting is just pushed to the eaves but not properly exhausting to the outside.

    I have ordered a Manrose MF100T to replace the fan. Just trying to decide
    whether to properly exit the vent through the soffit or cut a hole through the gable wall just a short distance to the right in the picture and use rigid ducting and a vent plate with baffle.

    [​IMG]

    Also the existing fan has only L and N connections.

    The new fan will need 3 core and earth according to the web page.

    Here is the existing junction box which feeds the L and N to the existing fan.

    [​IMG]

    It has 4 wires entering. The yellow and blue are powering the existing fan and the red and earth just terminate at the connection posts.

    Is it a difficult job to connect this junction box to power the new fan?
     
  2. nigel willson

    nigel willson Screwfix Select

    here we go . Yellow cable should be ur switched live needed for timer. You ned to fit a 3 pole isolator switch and the red cable is the permanent live.The fan needs to be outside zones if in the bathroom and be RCD protected. think its notifiable to building regs cos its in bathroom!!!
     
  3. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Build regs!! Bog off!
     
  4. nigel willson

    nigel willson Screwfix Select

    so its OK to lectricte members of ye family then?
     
  5. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    It will be in the loft so outside all zones! :)

    Gable/soffit, your choice really, but prob best to go with shortest run which looks like gable from your photos. Flexi duct will be ok, just don't leave too much slack.
    If going through gable, then will obviously need a diamond core drill. If at ground(ish) level then usually best to drill in slightly from the outside to prevent face of brick being blown off but don't bother at that height, just go carefully through both skins from loft side.
     
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Put a 400mm 8mm drill bit through wall first, then you will know your hole will line if you core from both side, also have a slight downward angle to the outside for the pipe, any moisture can drain to the outside.
     
  7. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    I'd say vent through soffit - much easier to cut the hole. Be interested to hear your feedback after this upgrade because I have the same fan for my bathroom, and yes its c**p and I've been considering the same manrose MF100 fan. I should let the sparkies answer the electrical question, because I'm DIY and don't usually answer leccy questions, but I suspect you may well find that the red is permanent live, the yellow is switched live and the blue and G/Y normal neutral and earth. I suspect that you won't have to change any wiring, just disconnect the old fan and wire the new fan in to perm live, switched live, neutral as the instructions. According to the info I have looked up, the Manrose Mf100 doesn't have an earth connection as its double insulated.

    I would mount a baseboard and install the fan and the junction box to it - don't like to see "floating" JB's
     
  8. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Looking at replacing our rubbish inline fan that is attic for bathroom. It is rubbish and sounds like a jet!
     
  9. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member



    I thought soffit would be the easiest option....but searching around, there seems to be a consensus that this is a bad idea if you have soffit roof vents. Apparently the exhausted warm moist air can be sucked back into the roof space in this way :-(

    We have roof vents along the entire soffit so it's back to the gable option unfortunately. Will now need to think this one through as it means cutting a hole through breezeblock and brick in the right place,right size etc . I've also read that there needs to be a minimum 500mm of ducting at each end of the fan which is a pain as the fan inlet is only about half a metre from the gable wall so I will need to put extra lengths of ducting along the wall before making the hole to meet this requirement....blimey, and I thought this was going to be pretty straightforward...:-/

    Anyway, you where right about the red connection...at least i've sorted the electrics out now and the fan is very powerful and works a treat with the timer function. You can use it without timer by making a connection between L and LS and there is no earth. Timer can be adjusted by a little turn switch on the circuit board with a screwdriver. The fan also has 3 speed options by choosing slow, med or fast using a jumper bridge. It's actually very easy to do with the instructions in front of you :)
     
  10. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Other option is to vent out through roof;

    Connect flexi hose to 110mm soil pipe, position pipe near roof timbers or add batons and fix with pipe clips

    Soil pipe exits roof via a weathering slate, cap on top

    Insulate soil pipe with foil blanket, bubble wrap etc to help prevent steam condensing on pipe in cold weather - or you can fit a condensate trap and vent outside via 21mm overflow pipe

    Use a roofer to fit weathering slate, work with him with you in the loft doing the inside stuff and fitting the soil pipe up through the roof. This will reduce the costs for you, just means getting ur hands a little dirty ! ;)
     
    Wagamama likes this.
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Don't forget the distance/thickness of the wall/cavity when worrying about the 500mm.

    Regarding hole, have a gander outside to make sure you're not going to hit anything screwed to the wall then put a pilot drill straight through, take another look outside then go through with your core drill :)
     
    Wagamama likes this.
  12. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member

    Update.....pics below showing new fan in situ.




    [​IMG]


    Well it could go like this directly into the exhaust pipe, but I'm guessing this is a no-no as technically the distances are too short for correct functioning ?

    [​IMG]

    So I think it will have to go like this with a minimum 500mm of ducting at each end of the fan with a 90 degree bend into the gable wall.
    Does that sound correct?
     
  13. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I generally use a gravity flap grill on outside.


    Core drill the hole.
    Take the flaps off the grill.
    Fit flexi hose to the grill.
    Insert carefully through wall until the grill sits flat making sure it's the right way up.
    Drill through fixing holes.
    Insert and tap in rawl plugs then screw tight.
    Refit flaps and check they're free to move.
    Silicon across top and sides.
    Connect hose to fan in loft.
    Job done :)
     
  14. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    How quiet is that inline fan? Also, powerful?
     
  15. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member


    Thanks CGN
    Can I follow your instructions with either of the configurations or is only the second one the correct way?

    The first method will be easier on the outside since I can take a ladder straight to it but further along there's a small extension roof in the way as pic below:

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member

    Koolpc....the fan is no noisier than the original joke fan but it is much more powerful and I plan to put some sort of matting or insulation underneath to dampen the vibration
     
  17. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Let us know how u get on
     
    Wagamama likes this.
  18. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Whatever makes it easier. Don't take risks being at height on a ladder ;)
     
    Wagamama likes this.
  19. koolpc

    koolpc Super Member

    Thanks
     
  20. Wagamama

    Wagamama New Member

    The best option for me will be to connect the fan outlet directly to the exhaust pipe at the back of the blocks.Can I ask if anyone is aware of any risk of weakening the structure of the gable wall by drilling the hole. My proposed drilling spot is fairly close to the angled edge of the wall, kind of in the bottom corner. You can just see this from the picture. Is there a minimum safe distance to make the hole?
     

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