Roof over decking

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by DanielR, Mar 27, 2014.

  1. DanielR

    DanielR New Member

    Hi all, I am planning to build a shed roof over decking and I was wandering if anyone has any advice for timber size, slope, and most important, method of joining the frame.
    The roof will be 12x12' or 10x10'.
    So far I was thinking about 4x4" for posts and 4x2" or 6x2" for rafters, but I couldn't find too much about the joining technique.

    Regards,

    DanielR
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2014
  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Could you clarify your posting, are you building a shed or a just a shelter? Is it 12'x12' or 4'x2'? What were you planning on covering the joists with?
     
  3. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    It hurt my head reading it, so gave up. :p
     
  4. DanielR

    DanielR New Member

    It's a shelter, but I believe that the type of roof is called Shed roof, I have posted in a hurry, the decking will be 12x12' or 10x10', I will cover the joists with tongue and groove boards and shingles.
     
  5. vivaro man

    vivaro man Active Member

    Hello Dan, you need to make your mind up abour dimensions because that will dictate timber sizes.

    I assume you're going for a regular shape, a square or oblong. Make sure you lay the deck foundations out accurately because that will dictate the squareness of the roof. Use 4x4 or 100mmx100mm. Personally I would look around for something that's par with a pencil round on each corner.

    The 4x4 should act as your supports for the deck and go through the deck and act as the roof supports. The deck should be supported on 6x2 carcassing, this needs to be tanalith E treated as do your 4x4 supports. The joists need to be set out on 16'' centres.

    Whilst the 4x4 supports that support the roof will be around the outside of your deck on 4 sides, the inner deck joists will also require supporting. You will need to cut 4x4 that can then be either bolted or screwed to your joists. Here you have a choice cut them by dead reckoning or cut them, fix your joists and snip them off with a reciprocating saw. Your joists need supporting every 48'' or 1.2m.

    Your roof should be made up of a series of lightweight trusses. Make up a jig and knock them together out of treated 3x2 and wbp 18mm ply. Your trusses can be set out at 24'' centres. I feel that I must advise you to get a competent carpenter involved at this juncture because raising a roof, especially on such an open-sided structure, has various pitfalls. I know, as a keen diyer, you want to "have a go" but you don't want the rood ending up in next door's garden or even worse.

    Your foundations, which is where I should have begun, should be poured concrete. They need laying out to a plan and I would use socks to rag into the concrete so that the 4x4 has a socket to sit in. Avoid the temptation to use pavers. There are pavers and pavers. Some have the strength of knicker elastic!

    Put a nice balustrade around the deck, it will add strength but remember you must put your spindles at no more than 100mm apart.

    Setting out is the key.

    Wind and live loading on such a structure can be considerable but more so depending upon location.

    Good luck.
     
  6. DanielR

    DanielR New Member

    Hello vivaro man, thank you very much for all the information, I have posted while I was at work so I couldn't upload any photo from my phone. This is how the roof shoud look, with different measurements of course:
    1.jpg
    I have just came back from the garden and I have decided that the size of the decking will be 10x10' because I will have a shed next to it as well.
    For the decking carcassing I will be using treated 6x2, 4x4 post support every 1m, or 1.2m as you said-the post will be postcreted 700mm into the ground-and they will be bolted together with m12 bolts. I will also use timber preservative for all the cuts. All timber will be tanalith e treated.
    Shouldn't I have a plate for trusses?
    I know that are numerous pitfalls- one of them which I have in my mind all the time is the very strong winds which will escalate the fence and hit the roof-and that is one of the reason I want to plan every single detail ahead, if I feel that is too much to cope with and this could result in an unsafe building I will get a competent carpenter to do it, but I do believe that I can do it.
    Thank you very much once again!

    DanielR
     
  7. vivaro man

    vivaro man Active Member

    Hi Dan, yes this seems OK but I didn't realise you were putting a pent roof on the shelter. Yes, you will need a plate to sit the roof joists on. Remember to use steel twists to secure your plate and joists to your uprights. Use truss clips to locate your roof joists but ensure you get the right size.

    How far off the ground is the deck? You may need to make some steps. Remember the strings can be cut out of 9x2. The rise should not be more than 8'' including the going, which needs to be at least 12'' in depth. A handrail may help the young and older ppl get access to the deck.

    Hope the weather is kind to you.
     
  8. DanielR

    DanielR New Member

    Hi vivaro man, the deck will be built at ground level so I shouldn't need any steps and no planning permision because it's less than 300mm; I have a concrete base in that area at the moment but I am in the process of removing it, it has cracks everywhere.Thank you for the info regarding the strings.
    So I should be using this steel twists to secure the plate: Medium-Twist-Strap-MTS12_large.jpg


    and this truss clips for the joists 23098.jpg

    should I use 4x4'' for plate? a 10' length will weight 48lb and if I am not wrong, it should span without any extra support.
    Also, I know that the posts for the fence must be postcreted at 600 depth, so I suppose that I will have to go more than that with my posts because will support a lot more and will go higher.
    And one of the other things I have found out is that the max. height will have to be 2.5m plus I will need a 30 degree slope, I will ask an engineer to work out the slope...

    Thank you for the replay vivaro man!
     
  9. vivaro man

    vivaro man Active Member

    Hi Dan, is it important to have a clear span? I would have another 4x4 post in there and make a ledge out of 6x2 and then put 4x2 plate on top of that covering the 4x4 posts. Yes, I know, it might be considered over the top but think of those 10 nights per annum when we get wind from the Russian Steppes. I want to sleep easy. So should you.

    Your other details are fine and I expect a photo on here soon.

    Have fun making sawdust, that's all I do.
     
  10. DanielR

    DanielR New Member

    Hi vivaro man, no, it is not important to have a clear span, anyway that would be the maximum span allowed I believe, and thinking about it I would rather have another post, better to be over engineered. I live in SE London and even if we don't get the strongest winds, we still get 70m-80/h...enough to break 4x4" fence posts...
    I will upload some pictures once I start the project :)

    Thank you do much for all your replays.

    All the best,

    Daniel
     

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