Sanding joins in new oak worktop

Neat job.

I would look at using a hardwax oil such as osmo rather than danish.

Also make sure no grout adhesive falls on top of the tops as it will stain the oak

 

Yep nice, windows could do with a clean though

 

Osmo Top Oil satin or matt every time.

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-top-oil


As Jit pointed out grout adhesive stains oak, some will leave black stains.

 

Cracking job indeed - I bet you are really chuffed

I wouldn't worry about catching the edges of the grain fibres - this is dense wood.

To get them level it'll likely be a case or working slowly down to the level so as to not over-shoot, and swapping to finer and finer grades of paper.

You can start with abandon - coarse grade paper using whatever tool you are happiest with - even hand (tho' that might be hard going.)

Don't forget to blend in the resulting slope even tho' it's tiny - ie - work the sanding block further along the worktop a good foot+ so that you don't end up with what would effectively be a 'bevel' at the join, even if it's 2 to 3" long... It'll also mean that there won't be a sudden change in grain 'structure/direction' near the joint; like when cutting in car paint, you concentrate on where the levels have to match, but you also take the compound further away so's as to disguise any blending further away, and more gradually.

The tricky part comes when they are pretty much level, and then you'll find that the two sanding directions will be meeting at a sharp join and at right-angles, and if you cross over, you'll make visible scratches in the 'wrong' grain.

So, I suspect it'll be start with whatever is need to get the level down quickly - either hand (using a flat sanding block) or belt sander (careful - don't overdo it...), orbital (slow...) or whatevs...

But, I'd definitely move on to an orbital with a fine grade when 'matching' the two surfaces. With a fine grade of paper, it should blend them without visibly tearing the grains in the wrong direction.

But I'm sure pros will be along to guide properly.


As Jit (and KIAB...) says, Osmo has a great reputation for wood treatments.

 

It will need a fair bit of sanding, so a powered one is best.

Then finish off using hand block in direction of grain.

Orbital will leave tiny circles.

 

Nice project for a rotex.

 

Yeah, it's a tricky one, Jit. It'll be impossible to sand in the correct grain directions as the two meet in a perfect line.

Hence me thinking orbital - with a fine grade paper - will ultimately be best.

Ry - that's a Festool? Does it do 'random' orbiting? Is that the idea?

 

Yes random orbit is the fine setting.
I been using it in rotex mode (which is the forced spin) with 240 grit straight from the planer then varnish.

 

Tack rag.

 

Someone suggested it here apparently you need 16? coats of danish for the equivalent of 2-3 coats of top oil.

Link

Make that 15!

 

Osmo Top Oil is tougher than Danish oil, & doesn't need redoing as frequently as Danish oil.

 

Bu all means fire away with the Danish if you prefer - it has been the traditional method and works fine.

Depending on how you use your worktops - do you really 'use' them - slide pots and pans and plates and stuff across them? Do you dump damp cloths on them? Do you splash yer curry on it when serving? Well do you? DO YOU, PUN... (oops sorry...) then you might decide the Osmo is worth it.

If you plan to be careful and use a series of nice large chopping/preparation boards, then Danish is fine.

In either event, it'll be a case of careful maintenance - making sure you recoat/replenish before the surface is stained or damaged.

(I've seen some really nice glass chopping boards which are jet black but with a large & stunning high-def pic of a vivid veg or fruit on them - a cut tomato, pepper, etc. It would look striking against both the oak and the white units. When not in use, they'd lean up against the splashback - mmmmmmmmmm... )

 

I highly recommend Osmo oil. We have just had a white oak staircase fitted and we're unsure what to finish with.i really didn't want to loose the light colour of the natural wood. Decided to go with Osmo polyx oil raw 3044

It has a slight white pigment in it to avoid the wood darkening. If you get a clean damp cloth and wipe the worktops, this will give you a good indication of the colour it will be when you put a treatment on it.
The one mentioned above is suitable for worksurfaces and is resistant against water marks, beer, Cola and wine whist letting the wood breathe. Sound like I'm really trying to sell it to you....but as you can tell I'm rather chuffed with it!

 

Sure, it's not finished....yet but here's a couple. Ordered ours from wood finishes direct.