Hi all I have an existing door where someone has scribed in with I presume with a planer. I'd like to back bevel the door and scribe a bit more as hitting brushes as it closes. I'm thinking of using the plunge saw with rail, would this method be good. Then maybe tidy up with planer. Any advice would be great
Yes cheers it is scribed in like a banana at the bottom. But ive heard of people using the ts55 to scribe. Haven't tried that yet Maybe a sander after
Apologies confusing I know. Basically the door has previously been scribed in and not true. As th door shuts I can see it hitting the brushes, previous installer has used a planer but It hasn't been done the best. So I was think if I could back bevel and keep making light passes with the ts55 then blend in with a sander or even planer. Probably over complicating it. But just after any reccomendations sospan
Am I missing something here? Why not just plane it back where needed? It can't need much taken off otherwise the door wouldn't shut. If it has been "scribed in like a banana" to fit the lining then you need to keep that curve intact and a plunge saw is not the tool to follow that curve. I would have thought a few minutes with a hand plane would be all that would be required. I've put many a leading edge on doors that have gone tight in situ before now with a smoothing plane and then a block plane and chisel to remove the timber closest to the floor.
Already tried block planing it's not a wooden door. Laminated I will try the trimming the brushes, due to change the closure, I've messed about with the hinge it's a bit of a nightmare door. Guessing it wasn't right from the off. I'm having issues with the vacuum of the room shuts when window is open. Hoping a stronger closure will pull it in. I've had a few to sort.
Ah, penny's dropped. Standard setup; fire door with overhead closer and door fouling on the smoke seal? When I have that issue (about once a month) I drop the door off, remove the hinges and then plane a few mil off. Cut the hinges back in and rehang. That way you don't have issues with having to move the lock mechanism further in which causes all sorts of follow on problems. Regarding the closer, you can get a greater final closing force by shortening the pivot arm and/or moving the pivot point. Sometimes that's all it needs if you have run out of adjustment on the screw.
Never thought of attacking the hinge side. So much more simpler! Plus I got the ts55. So I can get it straight. The hinges are already chopped in a little far. So that in theory should work. I've tried endlessly messing about with the closure. Thankyou for that.
Very welcome. If you need to replace the closer I can thoroughly recommend the UNION RETRO3. Very good closer for the money.
Yes that was my first thought! So I was thinking of packing out then trimming, but makes more sense to trim from the hinge side if I have the room! I won't back bevel tho. Thanks for reply
Had to adjust one oak fire door. When the instrument strips went in the were interrupting closing of the door, sticking out ever so slightly and door very hard to shut. Took about 1mm of the hinge side and recessed the hinges flush, the doer was planed to keep and even gap on the hinge side. The door still had trouble shutting so ended up using a planer to put a bevel on the closing edge of the door and top, took a while to sort it but now closing with a lot less effort. Hand plane is the best, wouldn't want to risk saw on it. Just keep checking regularly while planing to check for fit door edge went over with coarse sandpaper to remove any plane marks then finish with finer grade. Put a small radius on the edges to remove sharp arris. The lock plat had to be recess a bit, but didn't have to alter any fittings. The other door didn't have this problem and could have been that the lock side frame is not perpendicular to the door so catching on the edge.
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