Secure 38mm stud lumber to stone wall solution.

Use a Thunderbolt, masonry bolt, has several names, same thing, they are a self tapping bolt, & can be used closer to the edge of materials, with a reduced risk of splitting.
Many lengths & diameters available, reckon you will need 120mm length.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-concrete-bolts-10-x-120mm-10-pack/8215p

 

Yes.

Don't need resin for the actual bolts, they self cut a thread,a very secure fixing, but I suppose you gripfill on timber to wall, but it shouldn't be needed.

 

1. Simply drill a hole the same size as the Thunderbolt™ into the material. Ensure the hole is a little deeper than the bolt to allow for dust - see technical info.

2. Remove any loose dust from the hole.

3. Screw in the Thunderbolt™ with a socket wrench. Apply a slight downward pressure to start the self-tapping action, as you would with a woodscrew.

4. Tighten the Thunderbolt™ to secure the fixture in place.

5. Job done

 

I've never used these myself, and have read only positive reports on them.

I do worry slightly about them, tho'. They strike me as a type of fitting that won't be very tolerant of 'movement' - agitation, vibration, knocks. I mean, there is nothing in their design that will 'compensate' for the effects of a hard knock; no 'springiness', no 'expanded-sleeve' type fixing which has, by its nature, a bit of extra 'built-in' fixing-force in it.

Know what I mean? An expanding sleeve bolt is inserted, cranked up until tight - and then given an extra tweak. It is constantly under tension - the sleeve is under some elastic compression, the bolt under some elastic tension; it all has some built-in 'excess' holding power in it. If it received a knock, it would vibrate and possibly move slightly, but still have expanding force in reserve.

I've always suspected that these thunder bolts - by biting only in to hard, brittle, unyielding, uncompressible concrete or stone - has none of that innate springiness. Give it a sharp sideways knock and I can only see it becoming slightly loose. Only slightly. But, once any movement sets in, it's only a matter of time before it comes properly loose with continued small agitation - like a plasterboard fixing does once it 'starts'...

(I have never used them so I'm only speculating. It's chust something that's always niggled at me from the first day I saw this new type of fixing.)

For that reason - and also to prevent damp ingress - I would recommend as KIAB suggests; run a nice bead of StixAll around the exit hole in the timber and around the bolt thread at that point (NOT actually in to the concrete hole, or on the rest of the thread). Once bolted up firmly, the StixAll will help prevent any dampness in the wall from coming on to the timber, but will also hopefully act as a shock-absorber to any knocks the timber receives.

On that first point, I'd also recommend using treated timber.

I don't know if a membrane is also required on that wall?

 

I used 4 to secure a metal post holder in concrete. Only issue i had was getting the screw tightened in the hole as i didn't have a socket wrench! I had to use a spanner and a hammer! Took ages to tighten down each screw!!