Been quite a while since I updated this thread, or even been on the forum! Hope all of you guys are well, and wishing the best for 2018. This thread is far from where the build is now. It is nearing completion. I started working again, so I'm spending all my free time working on the build and around the house. Work in the kitchen was halted once it was usable, and several other projects were undertaken, including refurbishing the downstairs loo (again!), re-plumbing the house, insulating etc... Onto the build pictures! The Kitchen: The floor runs out on the oven side of the kitchen, which is my fault for taking the joist height reference from a high point of the existing floor. The floor runs down towards the inside door, so there won't be a step up into the new room. Started from the corner, installing doors and drawers as I go. I got the oven in place as soon as possible - by this point we had been without one for about three months! It is a Bosch fan assisted model, and a nice one too. Admittedly, I have never fitted an inbuild model - I was surprised that they just sit in and are secured by two screws in the front. Then onto wall units. These are 'tall' (900mm) units. They are all fixed with either 4 inch coach screws or spring toggles. I left the cooker hood for a few days, and you will see why shortly... Then onto the sink and dishwasher drainage. I used 40mm solvent weld everywhere. This photo shows the 16mm buteline for the hot tap, the 22mm cold was installed afterwards, with drops for the outside tap, dishwasher, and washing machine feed. I hate the idea of attaching appliance waste outlets to the sink trap - hence the dedicated tee. I had to avoid interfering with the doorway to the cellar, so I used a bunch of bends to make this atrocity: It then leaves on the other end of the cellar: The other side of this wall is a stub stack, to take the drainage without the issue of blocked gullys: I was then onto worktops. I cut them all down leaving excess with the TS55. There is only one masons mitre on this side, in the corner. OF1400 performed lovely by the way. I believe it was Sospan who recommended it - thanks!
Would have fitted a HepvO valve or a running P trap to that appliance pipe feeding that goes into the tee, just in case of any smell ever creeping back from stack. Would have used swept tees with acess plug on stub stack. OF1400 lovely kit.
I installed the cooker hood at this point, it was easier to stand on the worktop and work away. I cut a large hole in the wall for this, so that in the future, if I need to run any pipework, I can take the cupboard off and work away. This is the only unit that is not secured to the ones next to it, for that reason. The socket was then installed on the cupboard. It is on the lighting circuit. The unit is a Howdens hidden model.
I installed OSMA's 'waste valve' on the appliance stubs recently, it seemed like a good idea to go without so that I wouldn't have to anually clean them, but it caused more problems than it solved. On the point of access plugs, the vent sits an inch on top of the boss, so access is easy. I use the Karcher drain kit for this kind of thing, it handles the bends easily. He'res looking into the stub stack:
Now, moving onto the appliance side of the kitchen. The first thing to do was to install the dryer ducting. We brought a condesing model a few years ago, and it used to leak all the time. We now have a Bosch vented model - which required some extra thought. I used our host's ducting for this. They make a piece which was needed for the join to the dryer and to exit the building.This: https://www.screwfix.com/p/manrose-...nce-connector-elbow-90-bend-white-125mm/22747 Here's the vent from within the cellar: It changes back to round to exit the building, and there is some glued conduit to use as a 'drain' for when the air condenses. There is a big jump here, where I didn't take progress pictures. This side has a normal worktop cut in as a breakfast bar. Joint came out alright too... All the wall units are 600mm here, and there will be a 'bookshelf' unit to fill the remaining 280mm. This had to be made to fit. I decided pretty quickly here to round the corners of the breakfast bar, I could see them being painful to hit. I did this with the corner of the jig. Then the bookshelf unit, which had to be made in such a way that no fixings could be seen, as it was on the end of the run. I used angle brackets inside the unit to get around this. Here's how the run looked before tiling:
I then moved onto installing rads. There are three Kudox models here, two type 22s (400 x 600) and one type 11 (1200 x 600) The small ones are attached to the cupboards, using contact adhesive and several short screws. I used street elbows to come up into the valves. This is an unusual valve arrangement, but I wanted the pipework behind the cupboard, the whole rad still gets toasty. And then attached with to buteline: The single panel model was for the dining room. It had it's pipework buried too. However, I chased out after the fact. The pipes were insulated under the floor, but not in the wall. Then after using bonding on the chases: The TRV is up high so it can be adjusted without bending down.
I then moved onto tiling. I used the ready-mixed adhesive and grout from Screwfix. The tiles are from Topps Tiles. This was quite a time comsuming job. Haven't tiled in a long time, and was very rusty. I will say, the Rubi cutter made life a lot easier. You can also see from this picture, faceplates were going in. It gets quite tedious when you have this many sockets. There is a patch panel and 'Vision' in-wall amplifier for the TV and ceiling speakers.
The lighting is working now too, which took some work! The lighting cabling all runs back to a central point in the 1st floor hallway floor, where I installed a large box full of wago's. Over 40 Wago's to give you some idea... The Hi-Tuff from the outside lights terminates into it's own Wiska box, on the advice of a spark. He did say that BC may not be happy with the cables being tied in a bunch, so if any sparks on here have an opinion? We have spotlights on both sides of the room, switched per side, as well as LED strips under the cabs, which are also switched per side. 4 switches for the kitchen lighting. The spots are 5w GU10's from LEDHut. They flood the room, which is exactly what we wanted. The dining room has one ceiling pendant and a wall light above the window.
Speaking of the dining room, this is what has happened to this room: I installed two 500 cabs in the corner, and a different worktop. The idea is to use this as a desk. The shelving went in shortly after. It uses the hook in system. There are two network points on the desk, as well as a HDMI port which runs to the TV on the wall. The skirting is sitting in bubble wrap on the floor, we opted for 219mm torus skirting, Pine, which will be an oiled finish. This new toy of mine will help with the mitres: Yes, it is the mutts nuts of saws.
Awesome job! Only thing I would have done differently (not by myself as not as skilled as you) would have to made the worktop that continues after the cooker hob the same width. Thus, a continuous line for the worktop.
Thanks! I've learnt loads over the course of this build. A good chuck of this stuff I had never even dreamt of attempting.
There is a step in the wall for where the cavity wall joints the house. It leaves a 200mm gap to make up. However, I will agreee one single run of top would have looked much better.
Good to see nice clear labeling on Wiska box,seen them blank & then you spend hours tracing the wires.
When I pulled in all the wiring, I made sure to label everything with a sharpie. I'm glad I did too, there are 32 cables running back to this area. I ran in extra wiring during first fix, so if I decided that 'I want a light here or a switch there' I could. While a good chunk of it is cable tied a foot further back in the floor, I could still use it. The inside of the box lid is labelled as to what cables enter that gland. The Wiska box up close: It's a shame it's being buried...
Some other 'Miscellaneous' / 'odd' jobs New Cellar area Several things done here. - First thing was to install some 25 by 38mm trunking, to clean up the cabling (and make it look better - this will be used more like an 'attic space'). - Install a metal clad double socket, to provide power to the 12v adaptor feeding the in-wall amplifier above. - Clipped up some of the waste pipework, used an offcut of ply to bring the bracket out. - Insulated the Buteline feeding the appliance area. - Installed an LED 'florescent' from TLC (https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/KBBAT5.html) quite a nice fitting, plenty bright for this area. Appliance wiring centre: This is another of the large Gewiss PVC boxes, for the appliance ring. There are four grid switches feeding four sockets, switching is single pole only. Old Cellar Had quite a bit of 100 and 200mm cable basket left over from various jobs, so I brought a few more brackets and set to work installing it. This is in the cellar, underneath the hallway. The consumer unit and network equipment are installed in the under stairs cupboard, hence all the cabling leading too it. Cable Basket: Plenty of cabling to sort though here! There was an old brick vent here, I've used it for the heating pipework and cabling. This runs through to underneath the new dining room. This is where it leads to the consumer unit: I installed two metal clad double sockets here too. Used a few bolt washers behind the sockets to offset them off the wall, they are below DPC.