Hi all, I'm currently in the process of converting a bedroom to a bathroom and I'll need to install a new soil stack to the outside of the building. I've located the sewage pipe (clay) and have drawn up the drainage plans for the BCO. I've come to the point where I have to actually start buying the parts for the connections + soil pipe itself and I'm a tad lost. Could someone tell me exactly what I'll need to buy to join the clay pipe to the start of the stack. I know I'll need a sweeping bend going from vertical to horizontal but I'm not sure where i would have to put rodding points etc to satisfy regs. I'll be fitting the plastic triple with rubber seals to T into the clay pipe but I'm again lost on what parts exactly I should be buying. The bathroom is on the 1st floor. If someone could point me in the right direction with screw fix part numbers etc I'll be massively grateful. Thanks very much, Damon
Don't understand'fitting the plastic triple with rubber seals to T into the clay pipe', is there no manhole chamber. I don't normally use Floplast, prefer Osma myself. But, here are the SF numbers you need. Clay to plastic coupler: 19914 Rest bend: 12719 92.5° Branch: 12454 Basin Trap: 91286 Bath Trap: 84362 Pipe clips for soil pipe Basin will be 32mm pipe, Bath 40mm, ideally solvent weld pipe. You also need 32mm & 40mm boss to connect into the branch, but SF only sell rubber bungs in each size in packs of 5(rather stupid),so look at OSMA 40mm BOSS ADAPTOR 2S399 & OSMA 32mm BOSS ADAPTOR 2S398, they glue in & should fit the branch, but check.
And I presume your using grey pipe,so you need to add a G at the end of the Osma boss numbers 2S399G, which I forgot. And you might getaway with a mini access chamber(but, you might need 450mm Inspection Chamber to keep BCO happy,) to main run so you have a means of rodding system.
Thanks very much for the replies. Much appreciated KIAB. Legendary.. I've uploaded another picture showing where the manhole cover is at present and where I propose to connect the soil pipe to clay pipe already laid. Originally I was going to T a bend into this pipe but after doing a bit of reading I guess I ill need to install an access chamber at this point instead? What chamber/connector would I need for this point (Circled on the image). Thanks very much! I'm just determined to get this right first time so I don't have to change anything when the BCO comes to inspect.
What else runs into exsisting manhole,or is just on a straight run. And what is distance from manhole to branch for new stack.
I'm going to the house now so I'll get the measurements in an hour or so. It's roughly 1/2mtrs at a guess. Nothing else runs into the existing manhole. Its just a straight run. Many thanks, Damon
What I do then is knock through exsisting manhole ( core drill a hole) & fit soil pipe from new stack into manhole. You need to Channel Bend,to allow waste to drop into exsisting channel, all pretty easy to do. Channel Bend below, available left or right handed.
Have more time, so a few more details, you can do your stack one of two ways, on pipe use a branch on through the wall for toilet, & fit 32mm/40mm bosses into branch for the pipes. The second way is neater, you use a soil manifold (22367) for the 32mm/40mm pipes,it does away with the bosses, & helps prevent stack induced siphonage on connecting runs, & then above that the usual branch for toilet. You will need to hire a sds drill & 127mm core bit to put hole through wall for soil pipe. Soil pipe clips: 24755 End Vent terminal: 11280 Silicon Spray: 3290F Soil Manifold: 22367 Pan connector,do use McAlpine ones,(best) straight/angled will depend on position of toilet.
KIAB, Thanks VERY much for your input. I'm going to take your advice and go into the existing manhole cover. It makes more sense and will work out a bit cheaper. This is all a bit new to me and a bit different to building race motorbike engines which is what I do for a living! I've got a SDS drill and am going to buy a set of core bits as no doubt they will be useful around the house anyway. Is 127mm big enough if I connect the pan directly to the soil pipe? I've read that the female 4" connector on the branch might not fit into the hole?? Do you have any more information on how a channel bend would sit/fit in the manhole cover? Once again, much appreciated. You've helped me no end
Very much doubt your sds drill is good enough to handle a 127mm core drill,probably burn it out. With the manhole you will need to remove the cement benching, so you can fit the channel bend, you can either core a 150mm hole, 127mm might be a smidgen tight, or you can remove a few bricks from side of manhole by using sds drill with sds mortar rake, or stitch drilling around the bricks to remove them.. Once you have channel bend & plastic pipe in place you can brick up any gaps around pipe,& when dry then apply new benching. Above image shows how channel bend takes the flow into the main channel, manhole is a bit messy, but benching the sides will tidy it up. Can't find any video's on Youtube, it's old fashion today working with a brick manhole,everything is plastic now,doubt any young brickie would know how to build a brick manhole today.
You won't need Clay to plastic coupler: 19914 as your going into manhole & not cutting a clay pipe. Out of intrest how deep is your manhole.
Hi Normally. You would connect to the drain at the manhole, If you are using the building control to oversee the project, it's best to ask them to visit site so you can discuss the project. You are paying them to check it for you. On line you can download the regs, doc H it's free Mack sure it's not rain water drains? It would be very good if you take this opportunity to study the regs, then you can do a professional job Regards Peter
Great thanks again both of you, really informative and exactly what I need. I'll give the regs sheet a good read before I draw up the plans and submit them to the BCO. I don't really want to get them out to the house until it's all laid as they charge a fortune for a visit. I will however call them to discuss once I have some drawings knocked up. I have this SDS drill. It should be up the job with any luck. http://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb631sds-5kg-sds-plus-hammer-drill-230-240v/4172g p.s the bottom of the manhole is around 1m deep Many thanks
When you come to knock through, cut a piece of timber 4x1 or whatever to the width & length of channel in manhole, will need to handle of some sort to lift it out afterwards, this timber will sit over channel to stop bricks, mortar, etc, dropping into the channel & being washed away & causing a future blockage. It make keeping channel clean much easier to remove with a trowel,& you can work with the waste still flowing underneath board in channel.
hi in the area i live (sunny dorset) once you pay the fee at the start of the project, as long as you call by 10.00 am, they try to call same day, no extra charges. may be worth a call to check this out? not hear of extra charges for a visit? they are there to help, not hinder regards peter
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