Solid worktop questions

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Flying Duck, Mar 28, 2017.

  1. Flying Duck

    Flying Duck New Member

    I'm gearing up to fit out 40mm oak worktops. I've got most the tools and a whole bunch of enthusiasm, just none of the experience.

    The worktops are currently going through an extensive oiling process!

    I'll be using my festool plunge saw and some wood beaver drill bits to cut the belfast sink hole (more comfortable with it than my router). I'll rout out a groove underneath for drips.

    I have one wonky wall that I will have to scribe the worktop to. Plan on building a template out of ply tonight for that.

    I'll be butting two joints using a bead of silicon, recesses and kitchen bolts and not much else.

    I think I'm mentally ready. I have two questions as of right now (I've had loads but found answers to most of them) - any advice would be appreciated.

    As the worktops have only been in the house for a day, should I leave the joints loose for a couple of weeks to allow the wood to acclimatise to its new home? I guess ideally, I'd not install them just yet, but that's not really an option.

    I've read on a couple of sites that cabinets with a solid top should be cut open, allowing at least 60% of the wood to breathe. We have two 350mmish deep cabinets - they are wall cabinets acting as floor units due to space restrictions, so they have solid tops. They will only be supporting 500x360 pieces of worktop. If I cut out 60% off the top, I'm afraid they will lose their structural integrity as they are already quite small. Any thoughts on this?

    Thanks guys
     
  2. Flying Duck

    Flying Duck New Member

    Just realised there is a forum section for kitchen fitting. Mods... care to move me? Sorry!
     

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