Hi I'm converting my garage into a games room and need to create a second / false sound proof wall on one side approx 330cm wide by 225cm high. I'm planning on using 4x2 cls and I have Rockwool acoustic insulation which is 60 cm by 120 cm and acoustic plasterboard. My question is, given the insulation is 60cm wide, I want the wall to be more insulation than studwork and that it'll be bearing no load, can I make the stud centres 600 mm instead of the more usual 400? I can't see this presenting problems for the plastboard. Is really appreciate your advice! Thanks.
Roger, if you decide to use cls at 600mm centres then perhaps skin the wall with 11mm osb and then plasterboard over that. It creates a much firmer job and won't go through when you swat a fly with a newspaper.
If the insulation is 60cm wide, and you don't want to cut it, the CLS would be at 65 ctrs, The plasterboard would not catch the battens. Or does it squash in a bit to fit 60ctrs? Putting the battens closer would improve stability, but reduce the sound insulation as the sound would pass through the battens. If its 12.5mm plaster baord I would not see it as an issue at 600mm
It will squash, and I would advise using 600 centres, assuming the plaster board in 2400x1200 or there will be a mismatch and a need to cut. Also worth remembering the noggins - should they be full thickness, or say 65/70 rather than 95/100? Put alternate ones to front and back of wall and then the Rockwool can go over them to help deaden that to! Is there a chance that perhaps a TV screen or dartboard or anything else will be on the wall? If so, think about using a layer of 18mm ply on the games room side - makes it so much easier to fix to especially if the timber is on 600 centres.
Thanks all. 600 centres it is then! The insulation will indeed squash - which I guess makes it more dense and thus more effective. I like the OSB idea and ply on the front as a home cinema is a possible option (it's mainly for a pool table initially!) Thanks again.
I did my kitchen wall with 18mm ply under the plasterboard - yes a small problem with fixing sockets however, when hanging shelves, racks, extractor fan, it was so, so easy. Don't jam in too much insulation - if you make it solid, it will not work as well. Think about it being the loose fibres which absorb and interrupt the noise on a random basis thus acting to insulate. Pushing in from the sides should be fine. And remember to check with an electrician for cables if you are putting any sockets on te wall - depth from surface and insulation need taking into account.
Thanks, that's good advice. I'll not jam it in... I was planning on leaving a 2.5cm gap to the existing wall. cheers
Agree with Chippie about leaving an air gap. You can also use resilient bars pinned to your frame, insulated and either double sheeted or 15mm Sounbloc sheet.
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