Hi Following on from my post about a soundproof wall (http://goo.gl/0q7CGL). I made a start today only to find that, after testing the base plate for size, the floor slopes left to right by 3cm. I was going to build the stud wall on the ground and lift into place but now have no idea what to do. The top rafter (I'm going to attach the top plate to) seems level so I thought I either a) build the frame square and pack out under the right side on of the base plate to level it or b) build in situ and cut the studs to length as I go. Option b worries me as I appear to be the world's worst measurer-cutter. Really need help as day off work tomorrow booked to crack on with this... Thanks
This might be a bit late, but 30mm out of level is not bad, depending on the length of the wall. Split the difference between top and bottom rails and use packing's as required. What is more important is that if you are constructing a sound proof wall,the sole plate, header and end studs need to be isolated from solid surfaces such as flooring and ceilings prior to fixing in place. Sound travels by vibration and the more solid the material is the easier the transmission through it. Therefore it needs to be muffled between the timbers and the solid surfaces. This can be cheaply achieved by cutting strips of old foam or rubber backed carpet or similar to the same thickness as the timber sections and stuck to the timber before fixing. If you do this to the top, bottom and sides it will help reduce the sound transmission. If space permits in the room I have always preferred to pre assemble the stud wall on the floor, then raise it vertically, pack it where necessary and fix it in place. The overall height of the new wall has to be reduced from the overall height of the room approx. 50mm to allow the stud wall to be placed. This will give you a 25mm gap top and bottom just right for packing's especially if the floors and ceilings are out. Check how much the walls are out of plumb, I have had to previously fix a sub frame in place before the stud wall goes in as the walls were that bad, also just bring in the end studs approx. 12mm to allow for the walls being out. Don't forget to fill any gaps around the perimeter with Rockwool or whatever you are putting in the wall.
Thank you. I actually did it yesterday and did a very good job I thought, as it was my first ever go at a stud wall. Your advice about not having it attach direct to walls etc is great - but too late! I've actually left about 25mm to the wall behind it but the base plate is on the floor and the top plate connected to noggins I put in between the rafters. There are some gaps so I'm going to fill those with expanding foam. cheers
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