Square Edge Laminate Worktops

If laminate Mason Mitre every time.

If solid hardword then a square joint is possible.

So in your case you owe your mate a drink.

 

Why?

(Genuine Q)

 

Although they are called "Square Edged Laminate" worktops, in reality there would not be a machined finished joint if the two tops were just butted up together. There would still be the smallest of chamfers on one or both of the edges/ surfaces where the two tops meet, and it would end up filling up with muck and dirt.

If I was fitting the tops, I would do as the Fitter has stated and miter the two tops together with a worktop jig and Router.

The best jig to use in these circumstances is the one with the shorter 45 degree run-in. The joint is only set into the other top by 10mm and they look far better IMHO than the normal 23mm.

Screwfix don't sell this reduced depth jig but here is a link to the one that I have been using for 3 years.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/multipurpose-worktop-jig

 

DA, Snezza has answered the question of why perfectly, re: the slight chamfer.

 

Maybe, sounds like more work than a Mason Mitre.
But as it stands your mate 2 nil up, wetting his lips as we speak.

 

Totally understand what you're saying, Sezza, but I was going by the OP's remark "when the laminate edging is removed and the end cut is clean the joint is seamless so don't see an issue"

Even solid hardwood worktops have a small chamfer, so how can they be 90 degree'd?

 

Hmm, I guess at the very front edge where the join starts, that must be a tricky one to get right?

Fairy nuff

 

For me, butt joint square edge hardwood tops, mitre laminated. Use biscuits and bolts on both.

 

In the picture that Phil posted up, it shows what appears to be an Acrylic/Plastic edge which generally tend to be 2-3mm thick. These edges are normally glued in place with a hot melt adhesive, usually applied on a large edgebanding machine in the factory. It can be done on-site, but is a PITA

If, as BHWoodcraft is suggesting, just the 2/3mm edge is removed from the Female side of the joint and the end of the male has been Routed clean and square, to allow the Male end to butt up against it, I can see 2 problems.

Firstly, where the 2 Acrylic edges meet, one is sitting behind the other by the thickness of the edging, and you have still got the problem of the 2 top edges not marrying up properly.

Secondly, how do you remove the residue of hot melt adhesive from the female side of the joint prior to bolting the 2 tops together? Just removing the acrylic edge wont take off all the existing glue. It has to be removed from the chipboard core or whatever you attempt to put in the joint to seal it, wont stick well enough to last. There is a way to remove the existing adhesive, but it takes far longer than cutting a 10mm miter.

Nope, sorry BHW, I think you owe your Kitchen Fitter mate a pint or two, and if he wants a job he can come and work for me!

Snezza.

 

Well said Snezza. There's also the added problem if the corner is out of square to consider (although the male end could be cut out of square to compensate, you'd still have the problem of the original glue used to edgeband the original edging )

 

Coooool - explained