I am currently fixing some 6"x1" timber T&G floorboards. The tongues and grooves are not central to the thickness of the boards. i.e. thicker space to one side of the tongue and groove. Can anyone tell me if the tounge and groove should be nearest to the upper or lower surface of the floor. Or if it doesn't matter? Thank You in advance GY
I would go thick side down Geordie, The pressure on the board from weight and traffic will be down, not up, so the higher the joint the better the flexation of the floor board as it will pinch at the top and open at the bottom avoiding a squeak. That is my theory, but I stand to be corrected by the real chippies. DWD
Traditionally the thicker side goes to the top to allow for a greater thickness to be worn away before reaching the tongues and grooves, this is of course from the days when floorboards were likely to be the finished surface. God, I'm getting old. It's probably totally unimportant now just so long as you are aware that the difference exists and don't get the odd one upside down.
My book sez tongue higher. But doesn't it depend on the quality of the board? When I last laid t&G, one side fitted tight and the other left a gap.
Ooops missed your post DIYhopeful. Havn't had an issue with one gap smaller than the other with the boards I am using yet but I will look out for this thanks
I actually thought it was simply to ensure consistency in the machine process. The face up T and G joint side will always be level and if there is any variation in the thickness between boards it will come out below. When I machine my own (for gate type jobs) I always run the groove down the middle so I can alternate the annual rings to neaten out the stresses. Can't do that with shop bought stuff though. DWD
traditionally tongue lower, from the days when floor boards were likely to be the finished surface. john is correct. a retired chippy across the road, tells me from his apprentiship in the late 1940's. fix with (cut) nails. punch them all below the surface THEN, plane the floor flat and smooth (HAND PLANES OBVIOUSLY)
I'd originally assumed that the thicker part would go upwards to give the extra thickness here where it might be required. However, with all the boards I've put down, if laid this way the natural warping that'll occur with the boards will mean that the upper surface of each board will be concave - and this just doesn't look good (ie: the high points will be at the board joins instead of in the middle of the board). If you lay them with the thicker part of the T&G downwards, I think you'll find that the high point of each board's warp will now be in the middle of each board - far more pleasing to the eye. Of course, the warping isn't caused by where the T&Gs are located, but from where the boards are cut from the tree; but I've found that all the floorboards I've used (from different suppliers) are consistent here: they look much better with the high part of the warp curve running down the middle of each board, and all the boards I've used have had to be laid with the thicker part of the T&G downwards for this to happen.
So, Geordie Yacker, what I'm trying to say is: hold a straight edge on each side of a floorboard and see which way it's tending to warp. Then lay them so that each board sits like an upside-down 'U' - the tips of the 'U', which are at the two edges of the board, will be contacting the joists and will prevent the boards from rocking as you walk on them. If you fit them the 'wrong' way up, only the rounded part of the 'U' will be contacting the joists and they will be more likely to 'rock' when walked on (as well as looking carp from above). Lawd, this is hard to explain in words...
Yes but... If you take into account the way the floorboards will warp, you'll end up fitting them upside-down 'U'-ways. If you then look at where the T&G grooves are, I have found that ALL the boards have had the thicker part downwards. It can't be coincidence - the grooves must have been machined after the 'warp-factor' was taken into account. I'm guessing they, therefore, intended the boards to be fitted with thicker part down. (This one will run and run...)
Hi chippy John. What happens if you lay them the other way around(thin side top). Will the wood squeak?? Moe89
No, they won't squeak. Not any more than they would do if turned t'other way. I'd listen to that cove devils advocate^^^ - he seems to be talking from experience... If you are gonna be looking at these boards instead of chust covering them with carpet, then try and work out what will look better - having the board cupping upwards in t'middle, or cupping upwards at t'joints? (My money is the former.) Look at the end grain - that should suggest which way it's gonna cup. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=40005
i have placed the thin parts up and the thick parts down and the whole floor is squeaking. i have inserted 4.5 x 45mm screws - 2 of every each board... its best if i show a picture
T&G floorboards are prone to creaking - that's part of their, er, character... It isn't down to which way up they are placed, but chust down to movement. What fixings have you used - a couple of snails in each joist? And, is your floor more springy than usual?
I'm not a chippie, but I have replaced a couple of sections of T&G,so have had to mate them up with the existing boards,wich were laid thick up. I must confess that I had never considered laying them the other way up.