If you have to notch noggins, rather than move beams, notch noggin, replace beam, may be easier to leave beams in place and use a multicutter/multitool to cut the noggin after the beams are in, bit more support for walking/leaning on. I'm not telling you to suck eggs now but by the time the dwarf walls are installed both sides of the loft you probably wont notice any discrepancies in the middle section as the span is broken up by the walls. But it is nice to get things spot on
Not sure if I got the right end of the stick wrt noggins, but are you putting noggins between the beams in order to join them together? A single beam under load will bend a heck of a lot more than if its attached to other beams. Adding the floor and securely joining it to the beams will also strengthen it and reduce reflection.
The noggins are fixed between the trusses at ceiling level to support the edges of the plasterboard.....
This picture shows the beam secured by the angle plate and grub screw. there are packers measuring 16mm. this is near the end of box section. This is at mid point and can only get 10mm packers in here. This shows the extenders on the thicker wall plate. Already started notching out by about 8mm. Think that's what they will say, some noggins aren't flush which would explain the differences. Done about 20 so far.
Beams get secured at the node point using 2 x stainless steel screw. Is quite sturdy once fastened. That's all that is required they dont get fixed at wall plate. The angle plates provide the fixings for the ashlar wall. This is the beam at party wall, only will be one here, rest of trussed need 2x beams each. Stair opening will be 3 together.
Only bought 2x wall plates at 4.8m long so was a little short. Didn't want to buy another long piece, so just screw 2x CLS graded timber together to make up the size and notched to match exiting plates.
Ok I've got a reply back from them: Firstly can you ensure that the outrigger is put in properly. Rest the outrigger on the wallplate, take the weight of the box section (this ensures the outrigger lies flat on the bottom of the Telebeam) insert the shim and tighten the grubscrew, only then let the Telebeam drop under its weight. Do this for both ends. If you don’t support the weight as you tighten the grubscrew then the structure can be set in a bowed position due to the outriggers not being level with the Telebeams. Going to try this now hop it works.
No, in the pic above that shows the extender end on the wall plate it looks like the wall plates been notched where the extender sits
Have followed what they said. Need 15mm clearance from the noggins otherwise the beams could push the noggins out and ruining the ceiling below. At 7.1m span is is always going to be some deflection. Once the beams are in place it very easy to push the beam at midpoint by about 8mm down, so have asked is it better to pack them out before fixing, then remove the packers. Once the beams are fixed at the points then don't see any deflection. Tired now after lifting the beams. So I still think I will have to notch out, hopefully do it this weekend.
Will they deflect as much once you have boarded it out and the weight is then spead across numerous beams.
Only just got that this week. Its the Milwaukee 10.8V 4in1 drill with drill chuck, and angle attachment.
As soon as the 2 screws (4 per truss) have been driven in then doesn't deflect. Without the screws I could quite easily push it down by about 6mm+. Going to get all the notches cut out this weekend, about 40 more to do. Can see why even steel they recommend clearances, SE on that job recommend 25mm clearance from joists.