Tiled skirting

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by Jay459, Sep 7, 2016.

  1. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    I had 595x595 porcelain tiles done just before Christmas. Amazing tiles and amazing job done. My only issue was a bit of grout residue and which i only discovered recently thats what the smearing was. Hope to get that off in the next week or so. It does look pretty bad as the tiles are white with light marble veining. Will it come off even though its been so long?

    I wish I had asked him to tile the skirting and all the wastage I chucked out could have done it all lol...

    Anyway I can't tile but thinking of doing this as don't think it would be too hard. I have a friend who owns a wet wheel tile cutter. I need to cut the tile into 5 so that would be 119mm or 4.6 inches high. I think that would be adequate being the existing skirting is 4 inches.

    Is it just a matter of putting on using gripfil, grouting the joints, using 3mm spaces as were used in the floor tiles so that the grout joints match, once all dried then just put 12mm stainless steel tile trim on top.
     
  2. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Pretty much, although you put the stainless trim on first as it has a lip which goes behind the tiles. I'd use something other than grip fill though.'Stixall' or 'Sticks like' is better to work with although more expensive but you'll probably only need a couple of tubes anyway.
     
  3. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    I am not a tiler, however here are some comments based on my recent experiences doing three bathrooms!

    Your cut pieces will be less than 119mm as there is the wheel thickness. You need to get them all identical so I would suggest setting it for 110mm. You will have 3mm below the tile, the tile width, a small 1 or 2mm grout line above and then 2mm of trim which would give a finished height of 116/117mm.

    The tiles may have a bevelled edge - it will look odd if one or two have this and the others do not so your cutting may need to take the edge off and thus going for say 110mm will allow for this.

    Some diamond wheels do take very fine chips off the edge, get a tile sanded to chamfer them slightly.

    Do you want the joints to line up? Sometimes it can look wrong, so before you commit, try placing them and then placing them with a 300mm offset.
     
  4. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    Thanks for your help. Will def keep that in mind. The tiles are not bevelled, they are straight edge porcelain. Yes I want all grout joints to line up so not every tile will be the same length.

    Theres not actually that much to do really, hall, kitchen, bathroom and utility. The skirting thats there is just cheap varnished rubbish and since plastering was not great it is a bit gappy and wavy looking.

    Anything I can do prior or during fitting so there are not gaps along the edge against wall or when it comes to painting will i just fill these gaps in...
     
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select



    You will be pulling the old skirting off so that should leave bare plaster. Give it a good brush with a wire brush to key the surface and then use Ardex P51, 1:2 dilution, to seal it. Then get a decent tile adhesive such as Ardex X7 which you mix as required.

    Apply that to the tiles, leaving the top centimetre or two clear and fit into place, move around as desired to get it into place, some of the adhesive will move up to fill the gap and when you are happy that the tiles are in the right place, gently back fill the gap leaving a couple of millimetres for grout or filler. Doing it this way minimises the amount of overspill onto the wall that will need cleaning off.

    When finished use an appropriate coloured grout to fill the remaining wall to tile gap.

    A Pro-tiler will probably find errors in my method - however, it works for me!

    May also be worth getting a bag of packers/shims http://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-x-x-100-pcs/99189 and use these behind the tiles to keep the trim in place. Insert them a centimetre or so and then after a couple of hours, wiggle them and remove. The variable thicknesses will help deal with the uneven wall. I was told to use them between trim and tile to maintain a nice even grout line - and it worked.
     
  6. Jay459

    Jay459 Member

    Thanks again for the tips, i thought that a grab adhesive would be all thats needed rather than tile adhesive but still have some adhesive left over i think from when the floor tiles were done.
     
  7. Pollowick

    Pollowick Screwfix Select

    Grab would (should) work however it could be costly. You need to get a good coverage behind the tiles so that impact with a cleaner or foot will not snap them, the gap filled to near top to minimise grouting ... You will find yourself using an lot of it, tile adhesive is a lot cheaper and probably better for the job.
     

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