Tiling kitchen. Worktop not dead level

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by alexjb1989, May 29, 2017.

  1. alexjb1989

    alexjb1989 Member

    Hi guys!

    I'm about to tile the kitchen.

    Just found out the worktop is not dead level. I've attatched a pic to show the spirit level. The kitchen is a U shape and will be tiled with white metro tiles all the way round.

    Does this amount of wonkyness make an issue?

    I was going to start tiling from the first row direct from worktop. Just concerned that will throw it all out now. Esowcauiad as I move round corner between different worktop pieces.

    Andy advice appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Have you turned the level around just to check the bubble for trueness.
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Rule out the level being slightly out.
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    :eek:

    Just beat me...:D
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  5. alexjb1989

    alexjb1989 Member

    Cheers guys!

    Afraid the same thing either way round!
     
  6. It doesnt look miles out.

    Set a line level with 1 tile at the very lowest point in the kitchen and work from that?

    Will mean nibbling and cutting a lot of tiles possibly but will eliminate any effect of tiles running at an angle
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  7. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    You have several options.
    1. Correct the worktop installation. This may not be as difficult as it sounds if you can get at the fixings that hold the cabinets to the wall and jack the legs up. If not, can you undo the worktop fixings and shim the worktop level with plastic spacers/wedges between it and the base units. You will need to fill the voids thoroughly when level.
    2. Start tiling at the highest point and ensure that the first run is level. This will work if the gap isn't too great and you can conceal the variance behind a neat bead of silicone. You might have to shim between the tiles and the worktop to keep them level or better still, fix a temporary batten level with the top of the first tile (plus the thickness of the grout) and tile off that. When that row has set, remove the batten and fill the gap.
    3. Run with the worktop but make sure that you leave enough space to get your 'verticals' in however this starts to come unstuck as soon as windows or other vertical fixtures are encountered. You could negate this to a degree by using running bond rather than stack bond.
    4. Start in the lowest point as suggested and cut the bottom row to suit.
     
    alexjb1989, Jord86 and KIAB like this.
  8. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    I guess you've checked levels all the way round(making sure your level is not over any joints like it is in picture 2).
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  9. alexjb1989

    alexjb1989 Member

    Hi guys,

    Thanks as always for all the responses.

    Yeh, checked all the way round. Level at bottom right of pic is the issue! The sink side and left side is not as bad.

    WillyEcker: Thanks for all the suggestions. I think you are right. The first attack will be to see if I can get the Worktop level by adjusting the cabinets. I've don't most things myself, but I paid someone to fit the worktop. He did an OK job, not A1 though. I wonder if a part of the issues may be he has not fixed the cabinets to the worktop in many locations. Out of 10 possible fixings, only 3 are used. I will see if I can pull it up a little.

    White tiles with grey grout I think will show any issues quite bad. So fingers crossed can sort a little first.

    Thanks again all
     
  10. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    Only 3 fixing :eek::eek::eek::eek: you need to sort that as well.
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  11. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I omitted to suggest lowering cabinets as well as raising them to correct the worktop - whatever works best.

    Good luck with it anyway. If you get the worktop level at least you'll be able to enjoy a full bowl of soup!
     
    alexjb1989 likes this.
  12. alexjb1989

    alexjb1989 Member

    Ha! I'll have a fiddle with all the cabinets tomorrow!
    Is there a particular type of screw you should use for fixing Base units to worktop? Or just any wood screw as long as it's not so long it breaks the surface !?
     
  13. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    Any wood screw in theory however I like to give myself plenty of margin for error just in case the screw bites and pulls itself in too quickly.
     

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