I have been reading through you various topics I am tiling around kitchen worktops - and around cooker The walls have been painted with an acrylic matt paint I noticed on one of your topic to key before using tile adhesive (I am using Bal Blue Star). What is the best way to key surface. The paint is not flaking.
You can give the wall a rub with sandpaper then Do lots of criss crosses with an old chisel or similar & clean off.
thanks I didint know the best thing to to as the instructions on the Bal tub just says you can tile over previously painted walss - just remove any flaking paint. and didint really mention aboput keying surface first.
This stuff grips well it’s up to you if keying for added grip is worth it in a kitchen or you can just light sandpaper the walls to roughen them up & clean off if you don’t want to make gouges in the wall
I need to ask one more question - went to local tile place today to get bits and peices and they said you should never tile over emulsion - what is your veiw on this. Also when using Bal bluestar would you prime plaster with anything as there are a few area that are just plaster. I didnt know whether the plaster would suck mousture out of adhesive. I know to steer well away from PVA but would you prime with anything. Thanks
Tiling on emulsion is far from ideal and is a worse base than gloss. However I wouldn't say 'never tile on it'. I've tiled on it myself and as long as its prepared (cleaned, scored, ruffed up) it should offer no problems, especially given that its just a kitchen splashback area. Don't bother priming the plaster as Blue Star will have primer built in to it.
I tiled on emulsion thinking I would get away with it. Only on the boarder tile mind. The moisture in the cement makes the emulsion go soft and it can loose its grip on the wall. I would suggest marking just below where the tiles are to finish. Score a line and then using a wall paper scraper see if you can lift the paint from the wall before tiling. If it won't come off, at least you cant say you didn't try.
I am doing that at the moment what a c* job that is sanding is to messy. but scraping is damn hard work. _ Any miracle ideas to remove paint a little easier. I know you cant use paint remover as it contaminates the plaster but is there any miracle paint strippers on the market to make my life a little easier and to keep my sanity I am using Hamitlon wallpaper stripper with blade attachment. Do I have to get every peice of paint off for example say there is a tile and 95% of paint removed but there is a peice of paint that wont budge
Just scratch through with a sharp blade making "cats paw" scratches all over the area to be tiled to allow the adhesive to bond on the plaster, no need to remove the paint entirely.
thank god - I will get the easy stuff off and scratch the rest the emulsion on will not react to the adhesive then - I was only trying to take it all off as Bal said not to tile on any adhesive, I dont know if it makes a difference but the paint is only about 2 months old. Plaster about 5months old. I didnt realise you couldnt tile over paint I thought you could tile over everything so painted kitchen first to save time (wwll that backfired)
hi gladys..blue star has no primer built into it .unlike its sister adhesive whitestar... firstly rough up the wals with a wire brush ..prime with bal bond sbr watered to ratio 4 parts water to 1 part sbr..then tile using blue star..good luck and let us know how you get on.....dhceramics..
No, it's just another way of keying through the paint to the plaster below. Paint will peel off AND WITH IT THE TILES. By scratching through to the plaster the adhesive can get a grip. As advised- do a search on this forum.
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