Hi Guys im looking for plan of attack to shoot in new doors in to very old frames theres a bit of twist in some and an bit of a barrel down the legs on others ive done a few doors in my own house before with no drama , but these are for me mum and there old frames so dont want to touch them and she wants some nice oak veneered doors so dont want to mess any up (if possible) else ill be buying the replacement no doubt.. and two have only 30mm rebate on the stops and i think the casing has the stops as one rather than planted on i havnt ran the stanley down yet so hard to tell but they look old the architrave is big.. any tips much appreciated ...thanks
I run knife down stops and get them off.Buy slightly bigger and put back on. Knife around hinges and router out. Take your time.
cheers wayners any tips for shaping the door to fit the frame ... is it best to start with the head then do styles .thanks
Yes. Try sticking to cutting bottom only. Draw / mark handle image so you get that correct. See lock marked on top edge. You need 20mm gap at bottom for carpet. Get height right. Door should drop in but we all know that don't always happen. When in, use 2mm Packers all the way around. Should be the width of a 2p clearance . You need some sort of door stop so door don't push through if you take stop off. To fill at hinge or catch plate tape up door furniture. Set in 2 pack wood filler but remove just as set. All about timing with filler. Use the same hinges and handle to mark/cut as you will scratch them, and use brand new set when fixing. Could go on but you will find your own way
Take you time. Don't rush. Make 2 door bucks. These will hold doors while you work on them. Several sorts but 2 like this work great
The main attraction of such doors is that they are complete in every way, supposedly 'perfect'. Unfortunately that is best achieved with a matching door lining. Ideally pre set. So be prepared for graft and grief..................
Put Vaseline on latch and door handles. It don't run like oil. Stays in place and you don't get grinding and the black dust
Yeah, what hasn't been mentioned is that oak veneer doors are just that, veneered. Meaning that if you plane more than 1/4 inch off the oak lippings(edges) at the top and sides of the door you're going to be through to the chipboard core, and that's a big no-no. You can't just take all off the bottom of the door either, you still have to get the margins right at the head of the door. You may need to plane the lining to fit the door at worst case scenario, but to be honest if I was you I'd hire a local carpenter to do the doors, as it's a whole different ballgame fitting oak veneers than a B&Q white colonial ten pound special. And you need three hinges on oak doors, not two, and do not cut a 20mm gap at the bottom of the door, you'd only do that if carpet hadn't been fitted, but I assume it already has. And you need very sharp chisels.
Thanks Jord sorry for late reply .. I was actually of thinking of using a rebate plane on the lining on one or two of them where there slightly barrelled out in the middle the doors ive ordere have got 6mm lipping so i am trying to kepp planning to a minimum... im also concerned about chip out on the veneer ,am i safer to stick with the hand plane or will i be ok with a electric plane working from ends in ... thanks again
If you are doing them with a hand plane, I'd use a Jack plane as the length is ideal for longer edges, but the blade will have to be like a razor otherwise you risk digging in and damaging the face, or use an electric planer with again, good blades. I buy the bosch reversible blades to fit an 82mm planer, good blades that will fit most standard planes.