Hi everyone, Looking to do an UFH install with a friend in the coming weeks and just wanted to seek some advice regarding layout. I’ve attached two very rudimentary sketches that I did with a blue and a red biro The total room area is 23 Sq. M. The room is an open plan kitchen - diner, with large bifold doors (u-value 1.2) in the offshot small diner area. Diner Area is 7 Sq. M and Kitchen Area is 16 Sq. M. I'm installing a wet UFH system using Polypipe components and a Worcester Bosch boiler. This has all been checked by a plumber who advised it was a good boiler for this project. The pipe work with run over 100mm (room A) and 80mm (room B) with a 65mm layer of screed and tiles installed over the top. Layout 1 (attached) is a serpentine arrangement, putting a large proportion of the heat in the system by the doors in the offshot and then running back into the main kitchen area. Layout 2 (attached) adheres to the countercurrent spiral design that is suggested as the most efficient, but of course it relies on two rooms being plumbed, so the offshoot is first, followed by the main kitchen area. Its a challenging space, but any advice would be greatly appreciated. Here is a plan of the room.
Looks like they will both achieve the same thing so I'm not sure what you are asking. In practice it will all warm up much the same rate so I wouldn't worry. But you should take advice from your supplier and let them design the run for you to achieve what you want is my recommendation. Assume your references to 100mm and 80mm refer to insulation thickness?? Most recommend 100mm minimum. Get some advice from your plumber before you start, UFH is straight forward to do but really expensive to correct when you get it wrong. And when you connect it up it, it requires a separate zone valve and timer, don't connect it into the radiator circuit of the house.
Thanks for the reply. I suppose they might achieve the same thing in practice. This being the first system I will have installed, I just thought Id ask if there was a genuine difference in performance between either. online reading does suggest this is the case and clearly I could opt for 100mm or 200mm centres if required near windows for example. And yes, 100mm and 80mm is reference to insulation. Pretty sure I checked with Celotex calculation and met the building Regs, but of course I will double check that thanks. I have a plumber helping out with the manifold and all control settings. I could and probably will ask him about layout, but thought I'd float this on here and see what came back first. I'm just interested I suppose. Thanks again for the reply.
I've not checked your measurements but make sure you don't go over 100m on one length of pipe (or zone) otherwise the heat loss is too great...when I was taught to do underfloor heating I was told aim to do 90m then i still have 10m to play with coming bk to the manifold...also 2 smaller zones will heat up better than one big zone (and if you fancied it then you could have 2stats-but you don't have to)...oh they also say you should try to leave 6inches gap from walls
Sorry just seen the fancy computer pic...doesn't look big enough to warrant 2stats lol!! So it'll just depend how many meters it works out at...also the spiral layout will heat up the areas more evenly but it takes much longer to plan out the runs, we tend to do the back n forth method...
Thanks Plumberbish. Yes I have a second zone in the living room which is a very regular square shape and should be very straighforward. I have not yet calculated accurately what the pipe run will be, but based on a few basic estimates I suspect it to be between 80-100m. I plan to order 100m.
Just don't forget if you run over the 100m don't be tempted to add a piece on with a coupler...your better off doin it in 2zones that work efficiently than 1big zone that doesn't! And pressure test it (with water not air) before screeding good luck buddy
Noted and thanks again. I actually have designs on adding a second circuit in the living room, over a suspended floor using Polypipe's Overlay system. However, the pressing need right now is to get the screed down and curing and I have not yet decided if I want to add this second system. So my question is - is it possible to buy the Polypipe 4 port manifold and simply use 2 of the ports for the time being and then add an additional system in the living room as and when I have decided thats what I would like to do?
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