Upvc window frames and catnics

All my uPVC window frames were fixed in place using long bolts that screwed directly into masonry (pilot hole but no rawl plug). They are not designed to go into steel so would not want anyone drilling through a lintel.

Foam should not be used to fix windows in place.

 

Don't think drilling into the lintel is a good idea, especial if it is a cavity type lintel may get water coming in.

 

I would only fix window frame sides & bottom only, & use 5mm spacers top, sides, & bottom to avoid distorting frame & allow expansion, then foam in as required & sealant.

 

Use mastic along the the lintel edge

 

Replaced the windows here last year. Original ones were fitted using ties, 2 on each side only. The were fixed in when house was built.

New ones were just fixed in same number of times (large one had 3 fixings) using frame fisher frame fixings.

Windows didn't have cills as there are bullnosed quarry tiles so frame sits on top of these. Used foam to seal gap at the top just enough So I got use sealant.

The bottom of frame just squirted some foam at 1ft intervals to act as fixing points before using tile grout to fill the gap.

Had to re-glue all of the quarry tiles as became loose when removing old window, they were just bedded on cement, so used stixall to refix. The joints were grouted.

 

I wonder if my frames were drilled through at the top, may be not. I will know tomorrow as the front frame is being replaced (due to a w**ker who tried to break in). May be just secured at the sides like Jitender says.

 

Took me a while to work out . Similar windows in another house had screw cover caps, but these used fish tail ties.

New ones seem good, and have been passed by BC.

I think if it were a patio or french door then would need some fixings at top and bottom, maybe straps screwed into frame which get fixed to inner leaf.

 

My windows are about 2.5m wide so thinking about that, they'd need some kind of fixing along the top or bottom, or top and bottom, to prevent them flexing. Will watch the guys as they take the old one out.

 

The lounge window was 2395mm wide and only had 2 straps either side.

Though ther ewas quite a lot of mastic at the top of frame.

 

Had my lounge window frame replaced last Friday so asked about how it was secured. They said they always try and secure on all 4 sides with at least 2 long Torx head bolts that screw direct into the brick (6mm or 7mm pilot hole). If its not possible to secure on the top with bolts then the foam would hold it sufficiently - but on long windows the opening/closing can make the frame move quite a bit if not secured adequately.

1950s original lampshade still in place

 

Think this style of window is better as no middle vent/sash. So foam would work at the top.

 

I hate trickle vents, which is why you don't see them here (this front window has toughened internal and laminated external panes for sound reduction), and I also don't like central sashes as they block the view.

On top of that, this window is slimline uPVC so the frames are narrower than normal. Wasn't cheap

 

Fitted windows here last year, specified them without the trickle vents too as look horrible, looks like you have an air brick already.

Windows were aluminum and thin sight lines.

Just had two side vents and left the middle pane fixed as yours.

Once ordered new sofas a few years ago and removing the center pane of glass was the only way to get them in

 

3 air bricks in that room actually - that front one and two at the rear. All will be bricked up in due course.

Didn't think about using the middle window as an access passage - always useful in case something big won't get through the front door!!

I've got trickle vents in the two upstairs bedrooms, most companies will insist on them if you already have them, but Sheerwater Glass were flexible and pragmatic.

 

My ones went in quite well. No cill as quarry tiles form the cill. May have to lower the window board in some rooms as hidden because frame is thin.

Some other houses had a stub cill when they have had there's done, but lost a lot of glass area and doesn't look right.

Original windows were single plastic covered over timber.

 

I've got "creasing" tiles and the window needs a cill so they installed stub cills with mine. These are the tiles, which I painted, before the windows were replaced.



Don't have a close up of the new window/cill/tile join but they look pretty good like this

 

Drilling Catnic lintels is a bodge. They are galvanised, you drill them and this creates a bare metal hole in a region of condensation. Not to mention voiding the lintel warranty. It wont show up soon, but its a bodge that's there for good. Once drilled, there is no going back.