Hi Chaps, whats the deal LSX - can i use it by itself or do i need to use it with PTFE also? and pardon my ignorance but if i do use it with PTFE, would i put it under the PTFE or ontop. got a damn towel rail and no matter how much PTFE tape i put on, it still bloddy leaks when the system is back to full pressure (1.5 bar) sodding thing is a right pain to drain down so want to get it right this time thanks in advance
1. Always fit isolating valves in line with towel rails, it makes them easier to remove and stops constant drain downs. 2. Cheap towel rails can be a nightmare as there is very little thread to get a seal on the valve, plenty ofptfe on the valve union and a smear of lsx on top should do it.
use liquid ptfe instead of tape, you will need to allow it to dry before you put water on though, good stuff i use a lot, ensure the rail threads are clean firstly
tried 20 layers of PTFE and the LSX and still **ing leaking. it must be the rail as i never have problems usually and its leaking from both sides. gonna do it once more smearing the LSX inside the female thread and all over before i hand it over to a plumber.
What you need to do is use some Boss White, you also need to make sure your not putting so much PTFE on that its bunching up and not sealing the thread. What make is the rad?
Try hemp & boss white, never known a thread yet that'll not seal with good auld fasioned 'paste & ropedope'!
Don't be tempeted to just paste LSX over the joint after its tightend, it would'nt seal anyway under 1.5 bar.
This stuff is also very good if you've smoked all your hemp the previous day; http://www.fernox.com/?cccpage=hawk_specialfibre&sub=4
i think i can see the problem - the streads dont seem to be engaging each other on the towel rail so its not getting into the grove enough. last time i put the ptfe on and put a smear on LSZ ontop of the tape and bunged it in but it just got pushed to the top rather than getting worked in i just cleaned the tread with a toothbrush got all the sh!te out and am going to rub the lsx into the thread and have one last try. is there an easier way to test it other than putting it back on the system? i would normally shove a hose on the end but cant see how i can connect anything to the tails with my 15mm pipe
You could just turn the valves off and pour water in from the top and leave it for half an hour, if its dry then your well on your way to a sealed joint under 1.5 bar. You do need the Boss White though.
i feel like a to55er for asking but how do i use the boss white? looks like i put it in the thread instead of the PTFE - is that right? cheers
forget boss white, liquid ptfe , no problems, its blue when it comes out the tube and dries clearer so you know its ready. put it on the last couple of threads on the male part, screw in and DON'T clean off the excess, leave it
Yes interesting dab, I've never used liquid PTFE is it better than Boss White and how long does it take to set again?
Does anyone else use iso-valves for towel rads, presumably visible ones? I'd have thought the rad valves served the same purpose - just another 2 more fittings to worry about?
I wouldn't have thought Iso valves would be suitable for use in a constantly high temperature heating circuit. Even boiler isolaters often fail to work after a number of years of 70-80 degree water going through them & they are supposedly designed for the job
ur havin a * larf if he cant seal a rad valve tail then why bother plumbing u not up to it. go paint a wall. u dont use lsx with ptfe u dont need to lsx is a face to face joint sealer ptfe is a thread sealer .. * jokers ptfe for threads...hemp boss/hawk white if loose threads [Edited by: admin]
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