Vaillant turbomax plus 828e instructions to change diverter valve

Does anyone know where I can get a user guide on how to change a diverter valve for a turbomax plus 828e boiler? Or can anyone give me some instructions? Please don't respond with "if you don't know what you are doing, get a heating engineer to fit it" .  I'm quite handy myself with house DIY, car maintenance and anything with my hands. I've fitted rads, changed taps, blah blah but never done anything with a boiler before. Plus I don't have the money to pay a heating engineer or risk getting ripped off.  Thanks!!

 

Thanks anyway guys. Vaillant never had any suitable manuals relating to replacing parts just an installation, service and operation manual. No good.

Yesterday I took the plunge and changed the Diverter Valve myself. Hey presto, the boiler is fixed.

I had the problem where sometimes after the heating has been on, I couldnt get hot water. Just lukewarm. And sometimes I couldnt get the heating to work after showering. Anyway, after some research I found it could be the Diverter valve sticking.

The process of changing it is quite simple. Its not as scary as some people have made out to me across the web. I did some more research on how to change it before just diving in. Just take your time and double check what you do.

Diy-novice, or anyone wanting to change the diverter valve on a Turbomax plus 828e, below is a guide I've put together of how I did it. Carry out with safety and at your own risks.

I Bought a Diverter valve off ebay for £60 inc postage. brand new. part no 252457.

Total Duration - Remove and fit ? 30- 45mins.

Removing old Diverter Valve
1) Make sure the boiler has been off a couple of hours to is cold.

2) Turn off the main cold feed by turning the inline valve the 3rd  pipe along from the left under the boiler, a quarter turn.

3) Then turn the grey pressure release knob, found on the far right under the boiler, to drain the water from it. The pressure needle will drop and you will hear water flowing out the boiler. Keep the grey pressure release knob turned until you hear no more water flowing.

4) Inside the boiler, on the far right just behind the pump, you will see a small black thing which looks like it can be twisted. Do so and you will hear a hissing noise. That?s the air being released from the boiler. Keep this open and then go back to the grey pressure release knob and turn it again. More water will flow out. Close that small black thingy back again but not completely. its meant to always be slightly open to slowly release air.

5) Keep a small bucket on the floor under the diverter valve just encase for the next stage. Undo the two nuts on the diverter valve pipes gently with a spanner. Move them away from the body of the valve. (the nuts are actually part of the boiler and not the diverter valve so when you buy a replacement, don?t expect any nuts with it.)

6) left behind under those two nuts, there will be an o-ring (washer) in between the diverter valve pipes and the pipes coming from the boiler. Gently push a flat head screw driver into the washers to push them out of the way leaving a small gap.
This is where some water may come out, but if you drained the boiler thoroughly it should just be a small amount.

7) At the back of the diverter valve remove the spring clip. You shouldn?t need it as the new one will come with one. Using a slight twisting motion, gently pull the diverter valve away from the heat exchanger, (the sardine can looking thing).
If it doesn?t budge easily, take a pair of gripper pliers to the neck of the Diverter valve and gently use that to twist it and pull away from the heat exchanger.

8) Gently clean the ends of the pipes with one of those brillo type things. Don?t get any debris in the pipes.



Fitting the new valve
1) Take the new Diverter Valve and clean around the pipes, blowing into them to remove and debris.

2)  Push the new valve onto the heat exchanger and line up the valve pipes with the boiler pipes.

3) Next push the NEW o-rings (washers) into place in between the pipes of the diverter valve and pipes coming from the boiler.

4) Bring the Nuts into position and turn them until they catch the thread. Make sure they are lined up correctly. Tighten gently with a spanner but not too much.

5)  Push the NEW spring clip into place at the back of the diverter valve which goes into the heat exchanger.

6) You no longer need the boiler isolated from the rest of the central heating system so open the cold feed inline valve back up with a flat head screwdriver. (3rd pipe along under the boiler.)

7) Re-pressurize the boiler by taking a flat head to the cold water mains Inlet valve. This is the 5th pipe along from the left / the last pipe on the right, under the boiler. Turn a quarter way. This will put water in the boiler. It will make a bit of a gurgling noise. Once the bar goes to about 1.5 bar, turn the valve to close it back up.

8) Let the system settle for a few minutes. Remember inside the boiler, on the far right just behind the pump, that small black thing? Open it up until you hear the hissing noise of the air being released. Twist it back again but not completely.

9) Check the pressure and open the valve again (last pipe under boiler on the right) if you need to and top it up. It should be at 1 or 1.5 bar now.

10) Leave the system for a few minutes.

11) Power up the boiler. You will hear some crazy noises. Let it settle for a few minutes.

12) Going back to that black twisty knob above the pump, twist it again as some more air will probably come out. Twist it back but not completely shut

13) Now test the hot water tap and / or the central heating.

All should be fine )))

14) Your Mrs will now make love to you because you are so clever and have saved a few hundred quid on callout, fitting charges as well as full price of a Diverter Valve from a plumbing shop.

Hope this helps and carry out with safety and at your own risks!

Email me if you need pics.

Thank you and good night.

 

"few hundred quid on callout, fitting charges as well as full price of a Diverter Valve from a plumbing shop

 

£120 my a**. thats the cost of the part alone. lol!

you guys would say that, your obviously engineers and dont want to loose any work.
hahahahahahahahaha!