vapour barrier/vapour control layer

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Whitling2k, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. Whitling2k

    Whitling2k Member

    Hi - can anyone help clear something up? Google has got me in a bit of a muddle with words!

    So I've built a timber frame over an external brick wall and filled it with glass wool insulation. I'm planning on stapling a vapour barrier over the frame before plaster boarding and finishing with a skim.

    I was going to buy some of this stuff; but have seen some sites call the layer a vapour control layer (example). The latter being significantly more expensive.

    Whats the difference and what do I need for my scenario?! I thought I had it all sorted :(
     
  2. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select

    I wouldn't use either of them, I would use a breathable membrane similar to that used on roofs.
     
  3. Whitling2k

    Whitling2k Member

    really? But isn't the idea to stop moist air getting through the skim/pb onto the cold masonary, condensing and causing mould/wood rot/ etc?
     
  4. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    The colder air is coming from the brick side so putting it on the inside of the wood would do exactly that.

    You should have put it on the brick side of the frame and set the frame in 50mm from the brick work.
     
  5. Whitling2k

    Whitling2k Member

    isn't that just going to give you a cold layer of membrane instead of a cold brick wall? Which will then attract condensation?

    forgot to mention that the wall is all rendered and plastered and painted already - the frame is over the top of an existing internal wall just to top up my insulation.

    Anyway, it's already built and screwed to the wall so I am not rebuilding it :eek:

    Just wondering if I now need the standard polythene stuff, or something more substantial?

    Cheers
     
  6. b4xtr

    b4xtr Active Member

    I am not trade, but, the vapour barrier is to stop warm/moist air from hitting a cold surface, therefore condensing and producing damp.
    The vapour barrier should be between the insulation and plasterboard. This is what i was told by one of the insulation suppliers and made sense to me
     
  7. Phil the Paver

    Phil the Paver Screwfix Select


    Warm and moist in the same sentence??

    Cold produces moisture not heat.
     
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Warm air holds more moisture than cold air, so when the warm air hits a cold surface, the moisture condenses.
     
    b4xtr likes this.
  9. b4xtr

    b4xtr Active Member

    What the Dr said, it's why mould appears on bathroom ceilings and around windows etc
     
  10. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Definitely a vapour control layer should be either directly behind the plasterboard or even in it (e.g. foil backed, insulated PB with VCL). Condensation is when warm air, which can carry a lot of moisture, hitting a cold surface which is below the dewpoint for the humidity of that air, so if you put a vapour barrier on the cold side, you risk condensation inside the stud wall because any warm moist air getting through the insulation will condense on the first cold thing it hits. It would have been preferable to stand the stud wall off the brick with an air gap and use insulation board, osb or mesh to hold the glass wool in. When battening direct to a brick wall, you could install a second vapour barrier to stop penetrating damp rotting the studs/battens, but if the external wall is waterproof this is unnecessary.

    Incidentally, cold air is "drier". In very cold places - scandinavia, alaska the air can get so cold with so little water vapour in it that static electricity doesn't dissipate easily (another effect of warm moist air - it dissipates static) and there is a bigger problem with nuisance static. I remember travelling through Anchorage many years ago in a group, and if you shuffled your feet on the carpet in the airport terminal you could charge yourself up so much you could get a 1" spark from your finger onto metalwork and/or unsuspecting mates!

    I'd just use foil backed PB.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2017

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