Very strong glue for wood

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by katy Potts, Oct 24, 2014.

  1. katy Potts

    katy Potts New Member

    Hi there - I'm trying to develop a product and need bond 2 pieces of wood together. Unfortunately there is a small surface area to apply the adhesvie to so it needs to be really strong. - (see pics) can anyone suggest anything that might do the job? Any suggestions would be really really appreciated!!

    Thank you!

    Katy
     

    Attached Files:

  2. If you can cut a couple of notches in the ring part, then it would fit flusher to the turned piece of wood and give you a bigger area to glue to.

    I don't know what the carpenters would suggest but my first thoughts were araldite, it has stood the test of time but there may be a better glue out there.
     
  3. Hi Katy.

    As Mike says, anything you can do to increase the contact area the better. I'd certainly suggest roughening up the contact areas as well - certainly remove the paint from the white ring.

    A way to do both to some extent is to get some coarse (180 grit max) paper and place it on one of the surfaces, press down firmly with the other object and rotate back and forth; that'll key the surface and to a small extent make them match too.

    I'd also agree with Mike on the adhesive - it's hard to think of a better alternative to Araldite for strength, neatness and ease of use. It will also fill the gaps either side of the round ring edges - once the two parts are placed together, you should be able to use a thin roundish-tipped stick to wipe along the join to remove excess glue and leave a neat finish.

    There are some superbly powerful polyurethane-based wood adhesives these days, but you'd need to find one that isn't 'foaming' as that would be too messy here.

    Just how strong does it have to be?
     
  4. If you really need to, there's always the option of mechanical fixing too; drilling 3 or 4 small (2mm dia) holes in both objects part-depth and then dropping matching lengths of 'panel pins' or other thin nails in the holes after dipping them in araldite. Along with an Araldite bond, this will be very strong - but a lot more work.
     
  5. Depending on just what strength you need, good ol' PVA can be very strong too. It just needs a keyed surface and a - ooh - 5mm wide contact edge around the touching perimeters, and it'll be pretty darned strong; if you try and separate it after setting, I bet the wood will come away first.

    And clamp it gently as it sets as PVA is not a goodly strong gap-filler (but Araldite is).
     
  6. Or drill 1.5mm holes right through the two rings at a slight inwards angle to land comfortably in the 'thick' part of the egg cup. Then - along with glue - tap in some suitably-sized panel pins.
     
  7. R.W_Carpentry

    R.W_Carpentry Active Member

    I'd be inclined to get a couple of small dowels in first and then glue it all up with titebond 3 , there's a quite a few pressure tests results you can find online regarding glue strength and at what pressure each fails at, most of the time titebond 3 comes in better than epoxys like araldite ( albeit only slightly ).
    Also as mike says, if you can trim the ring slightly so that its' fully scribed to the turned piece that will help.
     
  8. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    all of the above i assume they are curtainpole rings and ends so quite small
    i also assume they are decorative as well as functunal so a cable tie or other banding method
    coverd with material possibly ribbon wont work
    or possibly a glue gun and several material/ribbon wraps??
     
  9. katy Potts

    katy Potts New Member

    Wow, thanks for all the advice - really appreciated!
     

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