Victorian Fire Door FD30 - (XL Joinery Non- Raised Mouldings)

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Jitender, Apr 4, 2017.

  1. Working On It

    Working On It Member

    Bad luck mate, have found some doors are prone to this more than others, if it were me I think I would hold off as long as possible before planning any more off, best let them settle down abit.

  2. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Yea think so, if it were say a flush fire door then it would be quite stable. fitted oak shaker door in my home, so have have 5 mid rails as opposed to 3 on the Victorian to keep everything together.

    Problem is the room is a girls room so so she can't close and lock it, so need to adjust it. Her one needs at least 5 mm removing in places.

    It was only catching at the top when I had nearly finished the project, now it needs the whole lot doing to one side.

    nightmare project... had to do it quickly as house was empty during the 2 weeks. so doors haven't had time to acclimatize. and when when I turned up next day looking to pack up the tools and clean up the doors had moved!

    Made the linings as big as I could so I wouldn't have to take too much off door (manufacturer say only 6mm should be removed from each side). Kitchen door opening. had to cut the brickwork opening by 1" on one side to get the 32" door in with the lining as would have had to take off too much.
  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    Jit I'd be looking to remove the architrave and pull the lining over or wedge it to suit if needed rather than take lumps off the door, is that a possibility?
  4. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    The hinge side was all fixed in plumb and straight. The latch side was fixed more or less level and plumb.

    Had the reveal around the linings re plastered to neaten things up as rooms are occupied.

    Going to be a lot of work to to sort out if adjusting the linings, some were made quite accurately with little play in them as didn't want to take off too much of the door. The gaps were all foamed in.

    Hoping that the other doors stay stable for the next two months, house will be empty then, so not under pressure been really hard work over the two weeks. Took me 2 days to get the old linings out and make up new ones, then fit door.
  5. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    On this particular door do you have much gap on the hinge side?
  6. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Gaps on the hinge size have all remained consistent around 3-4mm.

    Adjusted the doors today, the door that needed a bit taking off; planed the hinge side then re-did the hinge recesses.

    All fitting now, I wouldn't say movement is from the door alone, as can see where the lining has moved away as had it plastered in the reveal, so lining has moved away from the plaster which was tight up against it. Could be cupping.

    Hopefully won't be called back for anymore, been in about 2-3 weeks now so should be settling.
  7. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    If 4mm you could have chopped the housing a touch deeper, save planing too much off lock side.
  8. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    I removed about 3.5mm from the hinge side. Didn't want to do the lock side, as its more work as have to reset the handle and lock etc.

    I've aimed for a 3-4mm gap all the way around the door (top and sides). Door linings will have the instrumescent strips fitted so any smaller then 3mm, the door may not close, noticed it on the kitchen door as some friction, maybe could be the brush needs to wear in, plus not any finish on door so more rougher surface.

    If I ever do a job, will be waiting at least 2 weeks for doors and frames to settle before fitting them.
  9. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Ok, I am back on this thread again. 2 doors remain to be fitted which I couldn't do at the time, house became occupied so am doing it while it is empty. In a good way it has given all the doors and timber to acclimatize to the house.

    The door that gave the problem in the bedroom needed a couple of adjustments soon after installing. Unfortunately now the gap on the lock side is a bit more than I would have liker. And the only way to resolve this is by removing the whole door and attaching a lipping to the hinge side and recessing new hinged recess, a lesson I have learned :( I have kept all the strips of oak that have come off the doors.
  10. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    If you have a gap on the lock side take the architrave off and wedge the lining to suit the door, shouldn't have to touch the door or consider lippings.
  11. Jitender

    Jitender Well-Known Member

    Over the last few days I have been working on both the two remaining doors. A little rushed So I haven't checked for spelling a grammar mistakes..

    Bedroom doors wasn't too bad, the house has had some movement so the wall are really out.

    Had enough space to install a 78x30" door without taking anything off :). Had to cut the stud timber on both sides of the frame so when architraves get fitted, they sit comfortably flat.

    Turning into a bigger job, but I would rather do a proper job:)

    Decide to take off the old lath and plaster, it was quite loose anyway. The owner was going to decorate the property sometime in the future as had old wallpaper :eek:, removing the wallpaper would have pulled of large pieces of plaster.

    Bedroom door, middle stud above door, no head plate, so just screwed and packed out to suit door. Going to trim back the foam and fit some cavity insulation slab to get some more heat retention. Stud to left shows where I have had to plane/trim back to align with lining.


    Door fitted, with door stops. Waiting to plasterboard then have the wall skimmed before fitting architraves.

    Bathroom door was really bad, over an inch out of plum :eek:. I first started to cut the stud all the way down so I could get the door in, but then realized I had removed a lot of timber and was mm's in places, the only solution was to re-alter and fix in a new stud.

    Stud removed from bathrrom door.

    For strength I added a head plate. As electrics have all been exposed I have decide to put in metal knock out boxes using noggings.

    Plasterboard in bathroom is fermacell and much more durable, I just used an off-cut of stud and foamed into place. Unfortunately it moved during setting but is very stable, didn't put in a noggin here as may be installing pipework for a thermostatic shower.

    This is how far I got today with the door. Door has been fitted with hinges. I checked the floor for level and found it was about 13mm difference in level from hinge end to lock side. The hinges side was positioned so there is about a 10mm clearance from the finished floor level. This is the only way It would work. I will need to take off about 10mm of the other end, I know not good but really cant see any other option.

    This pictures shows this:

    Door in open position, showing good clearance.

    When door is closed it hits the floor only a short way in. Using a level I have checked and it it is about 10-13mm out from this end.

    Going to get some more durable plasterboard than the standard type, maybe fire rated one (pink) when I get round to this.

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